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Routes in Dreadnaught

Dreadnaught, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
East Face/Dreadnaught T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Primal Rib T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Solid State T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Super Power T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
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Type: Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Jim Erickson and Roger Briggs, 1980
Page Views: 241 total · 1/month
Shared By: Brad Bond on Aug 19, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

Super Power splits the large overhang on the Northwest Face of the Dreadnaught and is easily seen when walking uphill along the base from Skunk Canyon. It is one of the better crack climbs in the area and doesn't see as much traffic due to the long approach and the fact that it is usually closed from January through July. Super Power also faces to the Northwest, so mornings are best when it's hot. Later in the fall, the route is likely to be chilly but might catch some late-day sun.

A large eagle's nest lies about two feet to the right of the belay in the overhang. When we did the route (Aug. 02), no eagle was at home nor did we see any sign of recent activity. However, a friend of mine who did the route in the early '80s recalls being "attacked" by the eagle (this same friend has also been "attacked" by bears, raccoons, dogs and many other harmless critters). At any rate, if the eagle is home it would be prudent to find something else to climb.

Super Power is a slightly harder, steeper version of Supremacy Crack, but graced with an awkward wide pod in the middle. This route is a must-do for anyone who likes steep, burly cracks. The protection is good and it is well-worth the hike in to send this thing.

Pitch 1: Climb broken rock up the obvious crack system to a stance at the base of the overhang. This is about 5.9 but low-angle and is in no way a good warm up for the overhanging crack above. If you're the type who climbs better when warmed up, get that way on another route or go bouldering before hiking in. Pitch 2: Take in a deep breath and commit to the overhanging hand jams, cranking up into the wide pod. Try to find a rest or keep charging up the crack on good jams to an enormous jug at the lip of the roof. Heave over the lip and follow a licheny 5.5 crack to the ridge. The only gear needed for this pitch are Friends #1-3, supplemented with a .75 and 1 Camalot, and a #4 or 4.5 Camalot (either will work; I'm just not sure which is better) for the pod.

Descent: Climb easy 5th class down the ridge for about 100 ft. to a thread. A single-rope rappel, followed by some easy scrambling, will get you to the ground.

Protection

Standard rack with a #4 or 4.5 Camalot.

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