Type: Snow, Alpine, Grade II
FA: unknown, Albert Ellingwood, 1919?
Page Views: 8,511 total · 39/month
Shared By: ClimbandMine on Jun 15, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description

With incredible views, great conditions, two stellar summits, and 2,300 feet of climbing, this was one of my favorite climbs of the year.

Approach this classic snow/ice climb via the Maroon Bells TH and Crater Lake. Hike about a half mile past the lake to the talus runout below the couloir, then head straight up toward it. A cairn marks the cutoff point. Follow the right side of the runout and a faint trail past the obvious cliff/notch, and traverse in to the left to gain the snow. Climb over 2,000' of steepening snow/ice to the notch between the Maroon Bells and enjoy. The angle reaches about 55 degrees in the upper 1/3.

From the notch, follow the Maroon Ridge to South Maroon Peak (3rd-4th class) or North Maroon Peak (5.4ish) and descend one of the standard routes, or descend the couloir (carefully, with soft snow). Prime time to hit the Bell Cord is late May - June, depending on the year.

Protection

An [axe] should be all you need for this.

Photos