Type: Sport, TR
FA: unknown
Page Views: 435 total · 2/month
Shared By: Luc Gruenther on Oct 28, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Just a few feet right of Silmarillion is this 3-bolt route up a very thin crack. The first bolt is a bit higher than most first bolts at Castlewood, but it requires only fairly easy climbing to get to. The thin, 1-move crux at the first bolt is followed by 5.10ish climbing to the 2 anchor bolts. The anchors are not visible from the ground, but they're there. Keep in mind that the anchor bolts are not rap/lowering compatible...they're the same hangers as the ones on the route. Have the second climber clean the route and walk off to the right or walk to the top to clean up your equipment at the anchors.

Protection

3 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor at the lip.

Photos

First bolt is up there, alright. I thought it was a stretch to get to it, and therefore a bit sketchy. Crux is tough... Jan 17, 2004
Zak.M
  5.10d
Zak.M  
  5.10d
I didn't feel that it was an 11c, though that may just be because I stuck to the dihedral until the first bolt. If you stay left of the bolt line or straight under it, it may go at 11c. Nov 29, 2014