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Routes in The Playground

Black Slide S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Chinook S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Darys' Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Emerald Epitaph S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
High Flyer TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
No Wimp Situation S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Playing Hookie S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Problem Child S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Professor Plum With The Candlestick In The Conservatory S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Pulling the Flake T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Silmarillion S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tag aka Push Start S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, TR
FA: unknown
Page Views: 416 total, 2/month
Shared By: Luc Gruenther on Oct 28, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Just a few feet right of Silmarillion is this 3-bolt route up a very thin crack. The first bolt is a bit higher than most first bolts at Castlewood, but it requires only fairly easy climbing to get to. The thin, 1-move crux at the first bolt is followed by 5.10ish climbing to the 2 anchor bolts. The anchors are not visible from the ground, but they're there. Keep in mind that the anchor bolts are not rap/lowering compatible...they're the same hangers as the ones on the route. Have the second climber clean the route and walk off to the right or walk to the top to clean up your equipment at the anchors.

Protection

3 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor at the lip.

Photos

Zak.M
  5.10d
Zak.M  
  5.10d
I didn't feel that it was an 11c, though that may just be because I stuck to the dihedral until the first bolt. If you stay left of the bolt line or straight under it, it may go at 11c. Nov 29, 2014
First bolt is up there, alright. I thought it was a stretch to get to it, and therefore a bit sketchy. Crux is tough... Jan 17, 2004