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Routes in Upper East Face
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Conan T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Erki Nool (WGA) S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Extreme T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
| Type: | Trad, 70 ft |
| FA: | Skip Guerin, 1981 |
| Page Views: | 2,011 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | David A. Turner on Oct 21, 2002 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update
Details
2018 update: as of April 6, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk are OPEN. Eagle Rock remains closed.
Perennial notice:
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk will close Feb. 1 until July 31 for raptor nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened or lengthened.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk will close Feb. 1 until July 31 for raptor nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened or lengthened.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Description
Possibly the most consistently steep trad climb in Boulder. As steep as Death and Transfiguration, without the stem rests. As steep as Comic Crack, but not a one move wonder. Not as steep as the last pitch on Vertigo, but way longer. As much value as Arms Bazaar, but steeper yet. Very aesthetic, great rock quality.
Head up the gully past Jolt Cola, past Vasodilator. Crawl through the giant chockstone at the top of a gully to a ledge. An alternative approach is to climb Decade Dance or Aging Time, walk right on the top out ledge to its end, then rappel to beginning of Conan. The alternative makes for a nice Trad outing.
Conan starts thin fingers, jogs right and shoots straight up to a two bolt anchor. The gear is excellent. To get down, scramble onto the brushy slab to the South of the belay ledge and rap from a tree back into the gully.
Head up the gully past Jolt Cola, past Vasodilator. Crawl through the giant chockstone at the top of a gully to a ledge. An alternative approach is to climb Decade Dance or Aging Time, walk right on the top out ledge to its end, then rappel to beginning of Conan. The alternative makes for a nice Trad outing.
Conan starts thin fingers, jogs right and shoots straight up to a two bolt anchor. The gear is excellent. To get down, scramble onto the brushy slab to the South of the belay ledge and rap from a tree back into the gully.
This route is a blast! From the anchor it's easy to toprope Extreme, which felt a touch harder than Conan and seemed like it would be scary to lead. These routes get great late-day sun in the winter and are worth the slog up the gully. Jan 14, 2004
However, there are (and were "back in the day") several better methods for rope soloing, including: a moveable Munter-type knot system; the "Barnett system" using a prussik-type knot with limp yachting-type rope; using inverted Gibbs ascenders; and an opposing Jumar system (which is still used by a well-known local climber to this day).
None of these out-dated systems compare in safety and ease of use to the Silent Partner, or for that matter the Soloist, Solo-Aid, or modified Gri-gri systems.
Still, no rope-solo device, system, or technique should ever be considered completely safe or fool-proof. For this simple reason, rope-soloing at or near one's limit, particularly on remote, multi-pitch terrain, is best left for those with extensive rope-soloing experience, or better avoided altogether.
-SL Jan 15, 2004