Type: Trad, 70 ft (21 m)
FA: Skip Guerin, 1981
Page Views: 2,670 total · 12/month
Shared By: David A. Turner on Oct 21, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure / 2021 Update - reopening Details

Description

Possibly the most consistently steep trad climb in Boulder. As steep as Death and Transfiguration, without the stem rests. As steep as Comic Crack, but not a one move wonder. Not as steep as the last pitch on Vertigo, but way longer. As much value as Arms Bazaar, but steeper yet. Very aesthetic, great rock quality.

Head up the gully past Jolt Cola, past Vasodilator. Crawl through the giant chockstone at the top of a gully to a ledge. An alternative approach is to climb Decade Dance or Aging Time, walk right on the top out ledge to its end, then rappel to beginning of Conan. The alternative makes for a nice Trad outing.

Conan starts thin fingers, jogs right and shoots straight up to a two bolt anchor. The gear is excellent. To get down, scramble onto the brushy slab to the South of the belay ledge and rap from a tree back into the gully.

Protection

Stoppers; Aliens to hand sized cams

Photos