[Hide Comment] Take a couple TCUs if you want to protect the ledge fall potential getting to the second bolt. Also handy between the second and fourth bolt. That is the nice thing about a bolted crack. Dec 9, 2002

[Hide Comment] Dave McCanless and I did the first ascent of what is now named "Hours for dollars" on August 16, 1983. We called the route "PN" (long story about that name, involves an old girlfriend), and it was 5.6 A3 at the time (remember this was the early 80's). I'm surprised that no one didn't notice the piton scars we left. It was a very hot day, which was part of the reason we resorted to 3 aid points. I also pushed off a very large block (3' X 3' X3') block while on lead. There was a short first ascent note in the CLIMBING MAGAZINE Basecamp section, of the December 83' issue about this route. Aug 5, 2003

[Hide Comment] Unfortunately, documentation of these half rope climbs is sparse, at best, prior to the mid 80's when high quality guides emerged as the norm. Erickson's guide from 1980 was a good early effort to get things cobbled together for the Boulder area, however, nothing like that existed for Clear Creek. We have always tried to be on the lookout for old pins or other evidence of prior passage, but these are frequently absent from the more obscure crags. Prior to the mid 80's, peolple just climbed and there was no effort made to get every new route logged in and properly attributed. The process of collecting, attributing, and presenting all of the climbing facts falls largely on the shoulders of the guide writer who simply cannot get a host of unjpublished data assembled. Errors exist in even the best guides and this seems to be the nature of the beast. CB.com, however, can help in this regard since it is open to anyone with access to the internet. Aug 16, 2003

[Hide Comment] This route is very clean now and very fun. Two double length slings make for a nice anchor if setting up a toprope for frineds. I think a yellow Camalot would be better between the first and second bolts -eh take both and see what works best for you. Now about that anchor.... Jul 29, 2010

[Hide Comment] I had no concerns climbing to the 2nd bolt without pro. It is easy climbing that a solid 5.10 leader should have no problem with. Dec 31, 2011

[Hide Comment] This route was a blast. Fun lay-backs through the roof section. I think it has probably cleaned up a lot since some of the earlier comments were made. It is solid. Pro is not needed, but it is great practice for placing some if you're new to trad like I am. The anchors were a little wide without chains or rings, so just keep that in mind if you're setting up a top rope. May 25, 2013

[Hide Comment] I really liked this climb. I put a #1 C4 between bolts 1 and 2, and #0.3 X4 between bolts 2 and 3. It could be easily done without these, but they made me feel better. The layback at the roof was fun.

I counted 8 bolts and some very widely spaced cold shuts for anchors. May 4, 2014

[Hide Comment] This climb can definitely be led on gear. Most of the bolts were unnecessary. Oct 5, 2017

[Hide Comment] One of the more unique 10s in the canyon. Excellent climbing with some spicy moves even for solid 10 leaders. Great warm-up if you're headed around the corner, will get you nice and pumped for an onsight attempt. Nov 10, 2019

[Hide Comment] I agree with people saying that gear between the first and second bolt is optional. However, I did find that a yellow Alien slotted perfectly deep inside the #1 pod approx. halfway between these two bolts. Also, remember something for the anchor, the two anchor bolts have some distance in between. Apr 10, 2020