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Purity Control

V10, Boulder, 10 ft (3 m),  Avg: 3.5 from 19 votes
FA: Brian Capps
Colorado > Morrison/Evergr… > Matthews-Winter… > Millenium Boulder

Description

This is the most obvious line on the boulder and probably the best!

Start on two postive pocket and dyno left hand for a pocket. Top out up and left!!!

Per Anonymous Coward: Brian did the FA off the ground starting with his right hand in the pocket and his left hand pushing against the wall. He then reached up left hand to the next pocket, went again to the next left hand pocket, and then jumped to the top. I think he also graded it V8. Eds. This may be Old Bones, V6

Protection

One crashpad!!!

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Pocket problem, photo by Andy Librande.
[Hide Photo] Pocket problem, photo by Andy Librande.
Awesome boulder problem, the back step helps some.
[Hide Photo] Awesome boulder problem, the back step helps some.
Both the start and finish for me.
[Hide Photo] Both the start and finish for me.
Jared LaVacque, setting up for the crux of  Purity Control, V10, Matthew Winters Park, CO.
[Hide Photo] Jared LaVacque, setting up for the crux of Purity Control, V10, Matthew Winters Park, CO.
Attempting to use some unorthodox beta.
[Hide Photo] Attempting to use some unorthodox beta.
Just about to make contact on Purity Control.
[Hide Photo] Just about to make contact on Purity Control.
Jason Baker looking for "Purity Control, V10."  Millennium Boulder, Colorado.<br>
<br>
Photo by:  Luke Childers.
[Hide Photo] Jason Baker looking for "Purity Control, V10." Millennium Boulder, Colorado. Photo by: Luke Childers.
Purity Control.
[Hide Photo] Purity Control.
Purity Control, V10.
[Hide Photo] Purity Control, V10.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Tony Dunn
  V10
[Hide Comment] Just a correction, the topout is up and right. Sorry about the sandbag! Oct 22, 2002
[Hide Comment] To start on the two pockets I had to stack my pads. Has anyone started the problem lower - with right hand on good pocket and left on small undercling? Great problem . Nov 11, 2002
[Hide Comment] Maybe the best problem on the Front Range? Feb 13, 2003
[Hide Comment] I don't know about "the best on the Front Range", but it's got to be in the top 20 or 30. This problem alone is worth the trip to Millenium Boulder. Feb 14, 2003
[Hide Comment] Brian did the FA off the ground starting with his right hand in the pocket and his left hand pushing against the wall. He then reached up right hand to the next pocket, went again to the next left ahnd pocket and then jumped to the top. I think he also graded it V8. Jul 8, 2003
[Hide Comment] Sorry, I meant he reached left hand up to the "starting hold" then went again with his left hand, then jumped. Sorry about my dyslexic arse. Jul 8, 2003
[Hide Comment] Was wondering what the other names and ratings were for the rest of the climbs on the Millenium Boulder, since there are obviously more than 3 (particularly the problem starting in the "mail slot," going right and then up with a big reach from a medium pocket. I've heard V6-7.) Is there too much controversy? Mar 22, 2004
ac
[Hide Comment] No, there's no "controversy" about the Millenium Boulder that I know of. Seems that people just haven't posted all the problems on this site yet. Check out CO Bouldering Vol 2 by Benningfield for more route descriptions and grades. Mar 23, 2004
tcamillieri
Denver
  V10
[Hide Comment] The problem AC is referring to is called Old Bones (V6). Dec 10, 2009
Luke Childers
  V10
[Hide Comment] Great problem!! Harder than it looks. Hope to send in a few more session!! Powerful and technical. A must do!! Jan 27, 2010
tcamillieri
Denver
  V10
[Hide Comment] The rock quality on PC while very solid is also VERY sharp. I don't think 4 star problems can be very sharp. This bloc is not a world class boulder. 2 stars. Dec 6, 2011
[Hide Comment] There is a very obvious, lower, left hand undercling that is mentioned above that eliminates the need for stacked pads/cheater blocks. This seems to be the natural/logical start. Apr 13, 2014
MAKB
Denver, CO.
Eric Lang
Denver, CO
[Hide Comment] If we know the correct start from how Brian did the FA, why don't we correct the beta description? Oct 21, 2021