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Trad, 3 pitches,
Avg: 2.2 from 5
FA: Ken Trout & Robbie Baker, 1973
> S Platte
> Buffalo Creek
> Humphrey's Dome
Sugar Magnolia is the crack system to the right of Central Chimney. It can be seen from the dirt road as you approach the dome. The start is a nice hand crack that eventually leads into a chimney.
Pitch 1: (5.9+) Begin to the right of Central Chimney where two cracks form an upside down 'v'. The left crack is a 5.10ish variation and the right crack is the direct start(5.9). Jam this nice hand crack until it goes into a chimney. Follow the chimney as far as you can and belay from any one of the chockstones. I do not recommend using one of these rotten chockstones for an achor. However, I did not have anything bigger than a #4 Camalot, so I did indeed belay from a chockstone(the choice is yours). Look for a slung chockstone with webbing at the end of pitch one.
Pitch 2: (5.9) From pitch one, squeeze through the chimney using either VERY large pro, or as I did, used nothing until the end of the chimney where I placed a fist sized camalot( be careful here). Climb the crack at the end of the chimney. Follow the crack until it ends at a 5.7 slab. Climb the 5.7 slab to a big ledge and let your 'chimney wounds' heal.
Pitch 3: (5.5) From the big ledge, climb the 5.5 offwidth to the top of the rock and enjoy the panoramic views of the South Platte Area.
A standard rack with big cams, such as 4" pro or bigger for the chimney. I could have used a #5 Camalot or big bros for the chimney.