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Sugar Magnolia

5.9+, Trad, 3 pitches,  Avg: 2.2 from 5 votes
FA: Ken Trout & Robbie Baker, 1973
Colorado > S Platte > Buffalo Creek > Humphrey's Dome

Description

Sugar Magnolia is the crack system to the right of Central Chimney. It can be seen from the dirt road as you approach the dome. The start is a nice hand crack that eventually leads into a chimney.

Pitch 1: (5.9+) Begin to the right of Central Chimney where two cracks form an upside down 'v'. The left crack is a 5.10ish variation and the right crack is the direct start(5.9). Jam this nice hand crack until it goes into a chimney. Follow the chimney as far as you can and belay from any one of the chockstones. I do not recommend using one of these rotten chockstones for an achor. However, I did not have anything bigger than a #4 Camalot, so I did indeed belay from a chockstone(the choice is yours). Look for a slung chockstone with webbing at the end of pitch one.

Pitch 2: (5.9) From pitch one, squeeze through the chimney using either VERY large pro, or as I did, used nothing until the end of the chimney where I placed a fist sized camalot( be careful here). Climb the crack at the end of the chimney. Follow the crack until it ends at a 5.7 slab. Climb the 5.7 slab to a big ledge and let your 'chimney wounds' heal.

Pitch 3: (5.5) From the big ledge, climb the 5.5 offwidth to the top of the rock and enjoy the panoramic views of the South Platte Area.

Protection

A standard rack with big cams, such as 4" pro or bigger for the chimney. I could have used a #5 Camalot or big bros for the chimney.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Starting the second pitch.
[Hide Photo] Starting the second pitch.
First pitch. Belay in the wide part.
[Hide Photo] First pitch. Belay in the wide part.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Blossom's bloomin', head's all empty and I don't care.... May 8, 2003
Ken Trout
Golden, CO
[Hide Comment] FIRST ASCENT: Trout and Baker, 1973. This was our first FA. Oct 9, 2007
Christopher Jones
Denver, Colorado
 
[Hide Comment] I climbed this route yesterday, it was a pretty good route. Gear up to a #6 and take doubles of #3 and #4. There can be some run outs depending on your gear placements. Less than an hour approach with mountain biking. Mar 16, 2009
Jason Kaplan
Glenwood ,Co
 
[Hide Comment] Great route, seems sharper that a lot of the stuff I've climbed in the Platte. We took singles to 0.5 then doubles through #6 and singles of the 2 biggest Bigbros. Done in two pitches, the first ending beyond the slung, cemented kitty litter in the nice nook atop the last chockstone with a #5 deep back in the chimney and the 2 Big bros. For the second pitch, we took the Bros out of the anchor, and I wedged myself in a sitting in an outward position in a taper on the floor. Pitch 2 was a full 70m plus some, P1 was 35m. Knee pads and elbow pads would be nice, knee pads alone helped my partner cruise much faster than me. Really fun, it's like the Center Route for offwidth and chimney lovers. Sep 23, 2012