Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: Ken Trout & Robbie Baker, 1973
Page Views: 397 total · 2/month
Shared By: Shane Zentner on Oct 4, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description

Sugar Magnolia is the crack system to the right of Central Chimney. It can be seen from the dirt road as you approach the dome. The start is a nice hand crack that eventually leads into a chimney.

Pitch 1: (5.9+) Begin to the right of Central Chimney where two cracks form an upside down 'v'. The left crack is a 5.10ish variation and the right crack is the direct start(5.9). Jam this nice hand crack until it goes into a chimney. Follow the chimney as far as you can and belay from any one of the chockstones. I do not recommend using one of these rotten chockstones for an achor. However, I did not have anything bigger than a #4 Camalot, so I did indeed belay from a chockstone(the choice is yours). Look for a slung chockstone with webbing at the end of pitch one.

Pitch 2: (5.9) From pitch one, squeeze through the chimney using either VERY large pro, or as I did, used nothing until the end of the chimney where I placed a fist sized camalot( be careful here). Climb the crack at the end of the chimney. Follow the crack until it ends at a 5.7 slab. Climb the 5.7 slab to a big ledge and let your 'chimney wounds' heal.

Pitch 3: (5.5) From the big ledge, climb the 5.5 offwidth to the top of the rock and enjoy the panoramic views of the South Platte Area.

Protection

A standard rack with big cams, such as 4" pro or bigger for the chimney. I could have used a #5 Camalot or big bros for the chimney.

Photos