Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: Ken Trout & Robbie Baker, 1973
Page Views: 856 total · 3/month
Shared By: Shane Zentner on Oct 4, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

Sugar Magnolia is the crack system to the right of Central Chimney. It can be seen from the dirt road as you approach the dome. The start is a nice hand crack that eventually leads into a chimney.

Pitch 1: (5.9+) Begin to the right of Central Chimney where two cracks form an upside down 'v'. The left crack is a 5.10ish variation and the right crack is the direct start(5.9). Jam this nice hand crack until it goes into a chimney. Follow the chimney as far as you can and belay from any one of the chockstones. I do not recommend using one of these rotten chockstones for an achor. However, I did not have anything bigger than a #4 Camalot, so I did indeed belay from a chockstone(the choice is yours). Look for a slung chockstone with webbing at the end of pitch one.

Pitch 2: (5.9) From pitch one, squeeze through the chimney using either VERY large pro, or as I did, used nothing until the end of the chimney where I placed a fist sized camalot( be careful here). Climb the crack at the end of the chimney. Follow the crack until it ends at a 5.7 slab. Climb the 5.7 slab to a big ledge and let your 'chimney wounds' heal.

Pitch 3: (5.5) From the big ledge, climb the 5.5 offwidth to the top of the rock and enjoy the panoramic views of the South Platte Area.

Protection Suggest change

A standard rack with big cams, such as 4" pro or bigger for the chimney. I could have used a #5 Camalot or big bros for the chimney.