Type: Sport, 35 ft
FA: Bob Horan
Page Views: 122 total · 1/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Sep 28, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This middle of three lines ascends on a system of very fingery and small edges and corners. Since it pushed me off immediately, I set up the top rope to work out the beta. The climbing reminded me of a more vertical Twitch, but with even smaller holds and some perplexing body position. For an over grown boulder problem, it seemed very continuous for all of its 35 feet. Bullet-proof stone, complex sequences, reasonable pro, very fingery. Nice job by BH.

Protection

Four draws and a rope. Now has double bolt anchor at the top.

Photos

Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
  5.12a
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
  5.12a
My first impression of this neat little problem suggested a very hard route. In re-running it, however, I made a series of zig-zags across the face and this limits the difficulty to about 12a with several 11c sequences. This is really an excellent problem that packs a lot of climbing into its 35 feet. The rock quality is perfect throughout. Jun 30, 2008