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Trash It and Move On

5.11c, Trad, Sport, 170 ft, 2 pitches,  Avg: 2.5 from 8 votes
FA: Steve Sangdahl and John Baldwin, 1996
Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Vampire Rock
Access Issue: Seasonal Closure / Update Details

Description

This route is accessed by climbing That's Weak, as are The Good, the Bad and the Jacked, and Stage Fright. If you climb all of these routes in an afternoon, you will feel good about yourself.

Climb "That's Weak" to the big ledge. Move the belay to the anchors on the right. Trash It is immediately above. Clip bolts up increasingly difficult rock to a point where placing gear is essential and the climbing most difficult (Crux). Continue more easily up a crack to a ledge and bulge which is surmounted on the right, also presenting difficulties. Lower back to the ledge and rap back to the ground. A 60 meter rope is a good idea.

Protection

Quick draws and cams through 2 1/2 inches.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Beware of loose block on right off the ledge near the top. Oct 2, 2002
claytown
Boulder, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Good route with a tricky move transitioning into the crack May 31, 2008
[Hide Comment] First Ascent: Steve Sangdahl and John Baldwin - 1996. May 19, 2010
daveg Gauvin
Kremmling, CO
  5.11
[Hide Comment] An 80m barely got us back to the deck from the top chains. Oct 1, 2018