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Routes in Entryway Slabs

First Door T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Joy T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rock Biter S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a R
Shark Fin T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, TR, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 984 total, 5/month
Shared By: Nate Harris on May 31, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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CLOSED for 2014 Details

Description

This route is the best of the 3 routes on this crag. It follows the obvious, wide crack on the right. Hike up and right to the low point of the rock.

Climb up and around a flake then up the widening crack for 15 feet, then step over to the left where the crack zig-zags. Continue up the offwidth to the top.

This is a fairly easy offwidth crack, and it can be made easier by utilizing face holds. If you don't feel like leading it, hike around to the north, and go up the descent route. A good toprope anchor can be constructed at the top.

Protection

SR with a couple larger pieces, up to a #4 or #4.5 Camalot.

Photos

Luis Barandiaran
Longmont, CO
  5.6
Luis Barandiaran   Longmont, CO
  5.6
Despite the ground fall potential, staying in the crack is not bad, especially when using face holds left of the crack. Don't really think of this as a 5.7, more like 5.6, especially after watching Danny and Dave climb Initial Route on Hitler's Sex Life a couple hundred yards down the road (5.7). Now that's full-value 5.7! Jun 2, 2007
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
Given that the crack at the crux is around 8" wide, I wouldn't haul up a lot of big cams - they won't fit! I think the only piece that might fit in this section is a #4 Big Bro (expandable tube chock). This is not required, but you would probably fall 20' if you fell here.

I discovered a better protected variation about 6' right of the crux wide crack. The rock is a bit friable here, but at least you can get in gear. I went straight up when the crack zigs left, then traversed back left a higher horizontal crack. With this variation you don't need anything bigger than a #3 Camalot. Mar 6, 2005