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Routes in Right Side

Boulder Quartz System S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Counting Sheep T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sleep Deprivation S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sominex T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tooth and Nail T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
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Type: Sport, TR, 2 pitches
FA: Vaino Kodas & Bob D'Antonio
Page Views: 459 total · 2/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Jan 1, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Closure Details
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Description

Fifteen feet right of the Boulder Quartz System is a short 20-foot hand crack leading to a large ledge with a clean fifty-foot slab above. This is the start of Sominex and Sleep Deprivation.

P1. Climb the crack using small-to-medium gear gaining the ledge after twenty-five feet. Belay at a 2-bolt anchor. You can avoid this pitch by scrambling in from the right (see photo).

P2. Climb past two bolts on the right to reach a horizontal crack (crux). Continue up past 4 bolts at the right side of the face and move back left to the anchor of Sominex. Great slab climbing on excellent rock.

Protection

Small-to-medium gear if you do the crack on the first pitch; six bolts for the second pitch. 2-bolt anchors at the end of both pitches.

Photos

TBD
  5.10c
TBD  
  5.10c
It made the most sense to us to start from the huge ledge below the slab. While the holds are all there, the climbing is tricky to sort out. Very fun climbing on a short but great slab. Jul 21, 2003
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
I'd like to second that. Doing these routes in one long lead is asking for heinous rope drag. It's probably better to go up easy looking rock to the right (fixed sling?) and set up a belay. I did the 11 to the left in one pitch and it was pretty grim. Not a bad route but it would be better without the starting section to the ledge. Jul 23, 2003
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
Is the bolt line on Sleep Deprivation supposed to be completely separate from the bolt line on Sominex? My partner clipped the first two bolts of Sominex, then branched right to Sleep Deprivation, clipping 6 bolts in all. Oct 17, 2003
Bruce Pech
Boulder, CO
  5.10c
Bruce Pech   Boulder, CO
  5.10c
There's a new(?) two bolt anchor at the foot of the Sominex/Sleep Deprivation Slab. It can be reached by a short trad pitch beginning on the Rama-to-Sleep Deprivation traverse ledge or, as Peter suggests, by third-classing up and left from the far right side of the traverse ledge. The two bolts to the right of the anchor are the start (and crux) of Sleep Deprivation, not Sominex. Sominex starts in the left-facing, roof-capped corner left of the anchor. There's a good I 1/2 Friend placement in the horizontal crack that extends right from the edge of the roof . After placing the piece, step up and right to clip the first bolt on Sominex. Oct 23, 2003
Young Doug-If you start by clipping the 1st bolt on S.D., and head straight up past a patina-like knob, it is better than messing with the corner at the start of the pitch. used a tcu in the horizontal crack to protect the awkward moves onto the face. Aug 30, 2005
Joshua Merriam
Boulder, CO
5.10c
Joshua Merriam   Boulder, CO
5.10c
Traversing back to the left at the top made no sense to me. A separate anchor at the top on the right, with possibly one more bolt (but probably not needed) seems a more fitting ending. Apr 22, 2007

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