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Routes in The Mission Wall

Behind The Sun S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Billy S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Billy the Kid S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Challenger S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Eye of the Beholder T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Garrett's Revenge S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Gneiss Roof (AKA: Nice Ride) T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Gneiss Route S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Ground Control to Gumby One S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
It's Not You, It's Me T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ride The Snake T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rocketman S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Three Points of Contact S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Wild Child S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 320 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Thor Kieser
Page Views: 3,878 total, 20/month
Shared By: Thor Kieser on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

The route starts on a platform about fifty feet to the left of the huge pegmatite dike that splits Mission Wall vertically. The first pitch is well protected 5.9+, and the crux is pulling over a right-facing corner roof about halfway up. It has 8 or 9 bolts plus anchors. The moves are fun, and it's the safest bolting on Mission Wall so far.

Pitch two is incomplete but should be done within a few weeks. The second pitch is classic Clear Creek steep 11c jug hauling. Right now it ends on the grassy ledge where the two climbs to the left of Wild Child also end. There are no anchors on Wild Child's second pitch, so you either have to traverse left to top of other routes or lower off top bolt of this route.

I intend Wild Child to be three to four pitches in length when it's finished....

From Jan 1, 2005: Wild Child is now four pitches in length. From the top of pitch two, climb out the overhanging crack-chimney (10a dirty), at the third bolt undercling left onto the slab (do not climb straight up, it's more chossy). Cruise easy rock for a while, then friction past two bolts to reach Surette Ledge and a chain anchor. Actually it is more comfortable to belay off bolts found at the back of the ledge, the anchor I placed is for the descent. Pitch three is 10b.

Walk 15 feet right on Surette Ledge to a two-bolt belay station. Pitch four is high quality and exposed 10d/11a. Start with a delicate undercling/layback past three bolts through a steep, quartzite headwall to a crack, note the old ring angle piton in the crack (do not clip this). A long reach right allows you to clip the next bolt. Hand traverse right and fire through steep face (crux). Continue up 5.9 to a two-bolt anchor at the top of Mission Wall.

You can walk off to the South or rap the route.

Wild Child and most climbs on the Mission Wall are more adventurous than your standard Clear Creek clip-ups. There are still loose sections, lichen, fractured rock, and broken ledges. Surette Ledge is full of talus, so be very careful. If you rap the route, you may encounter rope hang-ups on pitch three. If you are inexperienced with multi-pitch or alpine-like rock, this route is probably not for you. If you are a solid 5.11 leader who likes adventure, then Wild Child is a fun outing.

Eds. this was combined from 2 entries into 1 for ease of use.

Protection

Pitch 1, 5.9+, (well protected) has eight bolts in 90 feet and anchors. Second pitch is not completed at this time but goes through a cool roof at 11c. About six bolts have been placed....

Now, the rest of the route has been bolted.
tyguy5280
Golden, CO
  5.10d
tyguy5280   Golden, CO
  5.10d
Thought I'd add some current beta since number of bolts and descent specifics were not totally clear to us before climbing this fantastic 4 pitch adventure route:

P1 - [6 bolts] to hanging belay. Watch for some loose blocks at the roof which add a little spice to the move... (5.9).
P2 - [10 bolts] to a nice belay ledge under a roof. Head right towards the roof from the 1st belay (~15' right of the hanging chains for the neighboring route). Pull the first roof and then rest up on a ledge before the strenuous crux over a 2nd roof / bulge (5.10+).
P3 - [10 bolts] to the Surrette Ledge. Pull out of an awkward roof with some funky gymnastics and then cruise licheny and mediocre terrain to a short slab for the last couple bolts. We went directly to the belay for P4 (~15' right) from the last bolt on this pitch, instead of the 2 bolt anchor above the final bolt. A 2" cam would have been useful to redirect the rope a little better up on the ledge, but we were fine without it (5.10-).
P4 - [9 bolts] to a small belay ledge near the top of Mission Wall. Head up the face for some steep sustained face climbing through the first 5-6 bolts. Cruising after that to the belay (5.10).

Descent: I personally recommend using this descent for all nearby climbs that end at the Surrette Ledge including Gneiss Roof, which we did earlier in the week and found to have a more adventuresome rappel than we'd prefer. Rap to Sur. Ledge from P4 anchors, but head to the rap rings above the last bolt of P3. Rap to P3 belay under the roof (requires a little careful navigation). Rap to P2 hanging belay and then to the ground - 4 raps total (3 from Sur. ledge). We had a 70m rope, but seemed like there was plenty of rope to descend with a 60 this way.

Enjoy this exposed, but safely / thoughtfully bolted climb! Aug 27, 2017
nicolas blair
Denver, CO
  5.11a
nicolas blair   Denver, CO
  5.11a
This climb is fantastic and is a bit more adventurous than the typical Clear Creek route.

P1: follow the bolt line straight up. Pull a roof (5.8) to a set of anchors.
P2: do not head to the chain anchors you see directly overhead, that's Billy. Head slightly right with thin moves to an anchor under a roof (5.10c).
P3: fantastic first couple moves off the deck! Pull a 5.9ish roof to great face climbing up to Surrete Ledge. You'll see a set of rap rings right below the big ledge, but it's easier to just get up to Surrete Ledge and belay from there
P4: traverse 20 feet right, and you'll see a bolt line heading up and right. It's the bolt line directly right of the overhang crack system. This pitch has medium exposure, but it's well-bolted and totally doable at 11a.

Rap (we used 70m) to each consecutive anchor. Stay left while you are rappelling. God speed! Aug 3, 2017
Dave Clark 5.10
Golden, CO
Dave Clark 5.10   Golden, CO
As correctly stated by Jay in 2009, there are only 6 bolts on pitch 1; spacing looks a bit old-school from the ground, but it climbs just fine at 5.9, and as Brian found out in 2015, those next two bolts leading to the big chain hanging from the roof are not on this route (not bolts 7 and 8 on P1, but I just had to find out). I really should read these comments before I climb the route. Jul 7, 2017
20 kN

  5.11b
20 kN    
  5.11b
There are a few loose blocks on this route. They might never come off, or they might come off tomorrow, who knows? Just something to keep in the back of your mind when yarding on the blocks from directly under them. A number of holds had chalked Xs on them, indicating they were loose (and indeed they were).

We rapped with a single 60. Oct 8, 2015
Brian Locke
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.11-
Brian Locke   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.11-
Just a heads up, the easy to see hanging chain on the 2nd pitch is for the neighboring route, Billy. We led up into that from the 1st belay - which worked out fine as the roof is easy 11ish, but it did add some rope drag to the rest of the pitch - the intended route follow a more direct path. Otherwise, climb was great - bolting seemed in line with Clear Creek stds and didn't have any loose rock to speak of, and the exposure on the last pitch is phenomenal. Sep 6, 2015
gregsmiller
Louisville
gregsmiller   Louisville
I rope soloed this on Saturday, great route with a nice adventure feel to it despite being bolted very well! The route seemed pretty clean of anything dangerously loose or dirty. Combine p. 1 and 3 for a full value. I'd call it 10+ Thanks for the hard work! Feb 11, 2013
Brent Apgar
Out of the Loop
 
Brent Apgar   Out of the Loop
 
The route has cleaned up nicely. The only disturbingly loose rocks were a couple of large blocks in the roof starting the 3rd pitch. Jun 10, 2012
303scott
  5.11b
303scott  
  5.11b
A swallow made a nest (with eggs) on one of the jugs for the 9+ roof on the first pitch. With the egg handicap, it likely goes at easy 10. Jun 29, 2011
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.11a
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.11a
No dynos are necessary at the second roof crux on the second pitch. I am 5'8" tall and did the moves statically at 11a/10d. Sep 1, 2009
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.11a
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.11a
Certainly a fun route. Not too dirty. The final pitch is excellent! Sep 1, 2009
Mark Roth
Boulder
  5.11a
Mark Roth   Boulder
  5.11a
Maybe edit both of these into one route? It's cleaning up just fine. Very fun route... Sep 1, 2009
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.11a
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.11a
The first pitch has six bolts, not eight or nine. Jul 15, 2009
Dan G0D5H411
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.11b
Dan G0D5H411   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.11b
Fun and challenging route. 1st, 2nd and 4th pitches are well worth doing. 3rd pitch unfortunately is dirty, mossy and loose in sections. Particularly the 3rd pitch v-slot roof crux is in bad shape...tread lightly and look carefully for the few good sections of rock to trust...

Dan Godshall Jun 25, 2007
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
Thor, if you log in using your old id ("Thor Kieser", not "T. Kieser"), you can edit the route and change the Bomb rating to whatever you think it really should be. May 15, 2006
I do not know how the bomb rating got in here. The fourth pitch is actually really cool 5.10d/11a. The third pitch is not super nice but the route is worth doing. May 15, 2006
Thor Kieser
  5.11a
Thor Kieser  
  5.11a
The second pitch is now clean. This is an awesome and rerally fun pitch with two cruxes. The first crux is a 5.10 c roof with a heel hook and small dyno to a jug on the lip and a second dyno to a crack over the lip. The second crux is 11a (hint: reach left twice). Aug 30, 2004
Thor Kieser
  5.11a
Thor Kieser  
  5.11a
We did some cleaning on Wild Child and its better now. THe second pitch is very cool and worth doing. at 5.11a. Hopefully this summer we will get to the third pitch. Jun 8, 2004
As of Spring '03, route still dirty and loose....

Spaces between the bolts wouldn't seem run out if it were solid rock. Thor, I have some brushes and crow bar you could borrow !?

On the top of the 1st pitch, at the 3 bolt anchor, the two lowering rings should be on the bottom two bolts, not the side two bolts. Jun 16, 2003
I am aware that the route needs cleaning and will get to it in the spring.

The second pitch is now complet but not cleaned.

Please be very careful if you climb the 2nd pitch.It'll get better in the spring I promise - Thor

Dec 7, 2002
As of october '02, this route is dirty and loose. The second pitch especially. Be careful up there. Having said that, the first pitch is a nice warm-up with a cool crux move half way up. 5.9+ with a bolt right there in your face. The rest of the pitch is easier 5.7-5.8 on big holds. It is run out for clear creek standards. There are good stances and hands for each clip save the first one. Certainly not a beginner lead. The second pitch goes through a roof with way cool position and well bolted. I call it 5.11a/b. From there you get onto a big ledge and then have to pull over another bulge on thin moves, again bolts everywhere you need them. I pulled on the draws through this section after I pulled off a large block and got spooked but it looks like mid to hard 5.11. The rest is much easier. This pitch needs a lot of cleaning work. Again becareful. The belay is protected from falling stuff by the big roof. This will be a very fun route once cleaned up and made a little safer for all. Oct 2, 2002
piz
piz  
Hey man, all the bolting on this wall is totally safe to lead. All bolts are placed at extremely large holds and all difficult sections have appropriate bolt placements. Remember, when you are ROCK CLIMBING (that is on rock) you are not in a gym, therefore there will not be bolts every two feet to clip. Lead climbing is an art and should be practiced on more tame ground. Accidents happen because people make poor decisions, not because bolt locations. If you are on a 5.11 route and can't climb 5.8 without much thought then maybe you should practice more before trying harder routes. I have done your first pitch and thought to myself, why was this route opened and not cleaned it is more unsafe then any other the others for the belay and the leader. I could go on all day but I won't, lets just say you do it your way and I'll do it mine.

piz : ) Sep 25, 2002