Route Number 12
Avg: 2.5 from 2 votes
Routes in Titanic
|Carrie's Dangle S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Mystic Club S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Road Rage S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Road Warrior S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Route Number 1 S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c|
|Route Number 12 S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Route Number 17 S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Route Number 18 S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c|
|Route Number 3 S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Route Number 5 S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Route Number 8 S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Sobriety Check S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Tuff Haven S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Type:||Sport, 100 ft|
|FA:||Bob and Carrie Robertson|
|Page Views:||107 total, 1/month|
|Shared By:||Julian Smith on Sep 1, 2002|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
Junkins Wildland Fire Closure Details
The Titanic Climbing Area near Westcliffe, Colorado is currently within the closure zone for the Junkins Wildland Fire. No one will be allowed into this area until the US Forest Service lifts the closure.
DescriptionThis is the longest route on the Bear Bottom Wall. It is 100 feet long. Too bad the name is not known. It is the 12th route from the left as you approach the bottom of the wall from the creek. Both Route Number 12 and Route Number 13 share the same first bolt as a start. Look for a low, but steep roof, just uphill from the Road Warrior.
Crank the steep moves through the roof and then head up. Work up and right through a big roof, located about mid-height on the face. Continue up and left (rope drag will become severe at this point if you used short draws and a single rope). Solve the devious face climbing through a seam. Finish by climbing yet 1 more roof and clip the anchors at the top. This is a wild route. Enjoy.
ProtectionIt would probably be better to take two 200 foot ropes for this climb. Use the first rope up to the first roof. After pulling the first roof, stop clipping the first rope and use the 2nd rope to finish the route out. 11 bolts will get you to the anchors. So, take 13 quick draws. In place of 2 ropes, use very long slings on the lower section if using only 1 200 foot rope.
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