Seasonal Closures 2024 - Bitty Buttress, Blob (Eagle Rock & Security Risk now open!)
FS (3/27/24): Eagle Rock & Security Risk are now open!
2/1/24: W. McCurry: to protect nesting golden eagles, U.S. FS annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk. USFS lifted closures 7/26/23.
From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock stayed closed - info:
fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about giving the eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or
fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.
See -
fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at
fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
Avg: 1.8 from 56
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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2024 - Bitty Buttress, Blob (Eagle Rock & Security Risk now open!)
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Boulder, CO
I found the headwall at the fourth and fifth bolts to be much harder than 10a. I had to power layback a finger crack with small lichen-covered footholds and a long reach to the next good edge for the hands. Maybe there's an easier way, but I couldn't find it. Aug 12, 2005
Around Boulder, CO
So, is the route hard at the grade, or only for Avalon?
On F.A. of any particular route, especially when I am cleaning along the way, I try to take all factors into consideration and guess at what grade the route may some day end up at. The great thing about this as a living resource is that it can be updated... Aug 12, 2005
Boulder, CO
Regarding the new routes on the Third Tier, I was trying to project into the future, when all the lichen and moss is worn away and all the beta is known and published. Ron may have a point though, that it is tiresome having the initial ratings endlessly downgraded by people who do not even set routes themselves. Time will tell if I have been too conservative on these last few routes.
As for the routes being "dirty," I would say this. Most climbers have no idea how much effort, time and sheer manual labor is required to set up a single new route on a primitive and heavily [vegetated] crag such as Avalon, Sleeping Beauty or Lost Angel. Clearing brush, loose rock and building approach trails are enormous undertakings. Understand that I am not complaining. I could not even explain the deep pleasure and sense of creative fulfillment this work has provided for me over the years. I am just speaking out.
If you think a route needs to be cleaned up, here is the solution: Go to McGuckin's or Southerlands Hardware and buy the following tools.
1. Wire brush with a closed handle (to protect your knuckles)
2. Weed puller, steel, wood grip
3. Surgical tubing, 24 inches long (to blow debris out of cracks and crannies)
4. Whisk Broom
Then go clean the mutha. Be part of the solution or be a wanker.
Yours truly, Richard Rossiter Aug 13, 2005
Boulder, CO
I fell off the crux three times. I found the route harder than all the other 10s I've done at Avalon, including Lust, Sex Slave, The Fool, Dominator, Marquis de Sade, Isle of the Dead, and Dead Again, all of which are rated 10b to 10d.
To Richard and Bob: I realize how much work goes into establishing and cleaning a new route; I have thanked you both in person for all the new routes you have put up over the years. The vast majority of those routes were fun and clean the first time I did them. Some were a little dirty at first but have cleaned up with subsequent ascents. I remember doing Gish on Bell Buttress and I could see the rock dust from drilling the bolt holes, and found the route fun and adequately clean even though I was doing perhaps the third or fourth ascent. I also did The Horse, The Dead Zone, and Charon's Boat on Avalon within a week of their creation and found them fun and reasonably clean.
However, a very few routes were so dirty when I climbed them that they weren't much fun: Prince Charmer on Sleeping Beauty, Justin Alf Memorial on Bell Buttress, Mephistophiles on Solaris, and Mystery Ship on Avalon.
When a route is dirty beyond a certain point, it will not attract climber traffic and will never clean up and become popular, unless the line is so compelling that it begs to be climbed, like Dominator, or unless someone takes the time to clean it up.
I'll take Richard's suggestion and buy a wire brush and whisk broom and keep them in my climbing pack when I'm doing a recently installed route, and try to clean the route if it needs it. I urge other climbers to do the same. Any climbers wanting to give something to the climbing community should apply a wire brush and whisk broom to the routes I mentioned above, and any other potentially good routes that need cleaning. Aug 14, 2005
Eldorado Springs, CO
Boulder, CO
Yes, some new routes are coming up. I will post them as soon as I have completed setting them up and have had a chance to climb them. Aug 21, 2005
5.10a Jun 9, 2006
Around Boulder, CO
Anyone who knowingly goes up to do 'recently installed' routes should carry a broad brush and help clean them up. Jun 9, 2006
Boulder, CO
Fort Collins, CO
Boston, MA
Out of the Loop
I would have to agree in part that this route isn't bolted well (especially not for a leader pushing 5.10s). Although the climbing through the first 2/3s of the route isn't all that difficult compared to the crux, there is a very real potential for ground fall from near the 2nd bolt. Not sure why the bolts were configured as such, but don't let your guard down til you've got the 2nd bolt clipped.
Sep 12, 2010
Boulder
anywhere
SHORT PERSON BETA: after clipping the bolt above the ledge, go to the crack out right for a good sidepull, then work your way up that until you can clip the next bolt. This takes your tie-in only about a foot from the bolt line, and an attentive belay will make sure you don't hit the ledge if you slip. Jun 7, 2022