Type: Trad, Sport, 90 ft
FA: ?Brent Kertzman & partner, clean gear, 1987.
Page Views: 1,862 total · 9/month
Shared By: Anonymous Coward on Aug 19, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


25 Opinions

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Description

Very nice route. Lots of fun if your over 6'. Significantly harder if you're 5'4". Kind of run-out w/o a few pieces of trad gear.

Number 3 on the picture.

Protection

Seven bolts (retrobolted) + 3 mid-sized Friends will get you to the chains.

Photos

We top roped this over the weekend. I'd agree that the crux has definitely got to be harder for shorter people - maybe 11a for anyone under about 5' 8", 10d for everyone else ;-) Fun climb. Oct 28, 2002
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
At 5'10", it was about an 8" lunge for the bucket edge off one foot. Maybe it was the rain.... Brian, at 6'2", said it was sort-of-static. Jun 17, 2003
Matt Juth
Evergreen
Matt Juth   Evergreen
If you're a shorty, and don't want to do the lunge, you can get around it! Sep 12, 2003
Ken Heiser
Boulder, CO
  5.10c
Ken Heiser   Boulder, CO
  5.10c
I always bring a couple of trad pieces to supplement the bolts on this one. A bit contrived but fun and very appropriately named. Dec 9, 2003
Jason Haas
G1 Climbing + Fitness
  5.10d
Jason Haas   G1 Climbing + Fitness
  5.10d
There is a 5.9 variation that goes straight up from the second pin instead of traversing further left towards Casual Corner. Sling a flake, place a few RPs, then connect with the last two bolts of the red hangers on the bolted arete to the right. Top out between the chains on the normal line and the bolted arete. May be "R" rated, depends on your comfort level with marginal gear. Nov 20, 2007