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Boardwalk
5.11b,
Trad, 150 ft (45 m), 2 pitches,
Avg: 3.7 from 23
votes
FA: ???
Wyoming
> Laramie Area
> Vedauwoo
> Coke Bottle
Access Issue: Temporary Notice on aerial herbicide treatment & Bad Bolt Submission Form
Details
PSA for those thinking about a trip. The gates are still closed and the sign says enter at your own risk. "Aerial application by helicopter of the herbicide Rejuvra will target over 5,700 acres on a landscape that has been the focus of multiple years’ worth of treatment."
fs.usda.gov/detail/mbr/news….
docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1…
Description
This is route 1 on the photo of the Coke Bottle. This is an area classic which is marred by a potentially dangerous pure hanging belay. Start on the east side of the Coke Bottle, at the bottom of
Bell Crack.
P1 (5.10): climb
Bell Crack (chimney ~5.9) to the very obvious horizontal crack. Hand traverse left for about 30' until beneath the Boardwalk Crack. This traverse has very few footholds and while technically straightforward is quite strenous, especially placing gear. The belay is 100% hanging -- there are no footholds. If possible, set up the belay far enough to the left of the vertical crack to eliminate the risk of the P2 leader falling on the belayer.
P2 (5.11b): plough up the crack for about 25' to a rest. This crux section starts as #1.5 Friends and goes down to #1 Friends and widens to thin #2 Friends at the end. The crack is flared and climbs wider than the gear. The technical crux is probably the #1 section. If the belayer is directly below the crack, the crux is placing enough gear so that you won't crush him/her if you fall while at the same time not using up all your #1 and #1.5 pieces Continue up the crack for another 80 or so feet of easy hands and chimney. I am not sure where the best belay is. There is a hangerless 3/8" bolt about 90' into the pitch. We belayed on a ledge about 120'. From here, it's a class 3 scramble to the top.
Protection
2 each #0.5 Friend through #3.5 Friend. Extra #1s and #1.5s are helpful for P2. I used #4 Rock size pieces for the 2nd belay. A #4.5 or #5 Camalot is useful but not essential at the start and would be an impediment for the rest of the route.
[Hide Photo] Sylvia Luebben pro-ing and going high up on Boardwalk.
[Hide Photo] On the rap off with a beautiful Wyoming sunset!
[Hide Photo] Ouchy, this crack definitely rips up the fingies!
For the hanging belay bring #3.5 to #4 Friend sized gear. This will let you set it off to the left and therefore out of harms way, and make it convenient to swap leads. May 28, 2006
Broomfield, CO
The first rope protects the traverse. The second rope protects the vertical crack.
Jun 26, 2017
Boulder, CO
Miami Beach
P1: climb the short, vertical, offwidth start to Bell Crack. Sit/wedge yourself in a no-hands stance at the top of the crack and belay. This avoids the A0 hanging belay rating.
P2: climb the rest in one pitch.
No drag, same pump, great style. Sep 20, 2021