Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Boardwalk

5.11b, Trad, 150 ft (45 m), 2 pitches,  Avg: 3.7 from 23 votes
FA: ???
Wyoming > Laramie Area > Vedauwoo > Coke Bottle
Warning Access Issue: Temporary Notice on aerial herbicide treatment & Bad Bolt Submission Form DetailsDrop down

Description

This is route 1 on the photo of the Coke Bottle. This is an area classic which is marred by a potentially dangerous pure hanging belay. Start on the east side of the Coke Bottle, at the bottom of Bell Crack.

P1 (5.10): climb Bell Crack (chimney ~5.9) to the very obvious horizontal crack. Hand traverse left for about 30' until beneath the Boardwalk Crack. This traverse has very few footholds and while technically straightforward is quite strenous, especially placing gear. The belay is 100% hanging -- there are no footholds. If possible, set up the belay far enough to the left of the vertical crack to eliminate the risk of the P2 leader falling on the belayer.

P2 (5.11b): plough up the crack for about 25' to a rest. This crux section starts as #1.5 Friends and goes down to #1 Friends and widens to thin #2 Friends at the end. The crack is flared and climbs wider than the gear. The technical crux is probably the #1 section. If the belayer is directly below the crack, the crux is placing enough gear so that you won't crush him/her if you fall while at the same time not using up all your #1 and #1.5 pieces Continue up the crack for another 80 or so feet of easy hands and chimney. I am not sure where the best belay is. There is a hangerless 3/8" bolt about 90' into the pitch. We belayed on a ledge about 120'. From here, it's a class 3 scramble to the top.

Protection

2 each #0.5 Friend through #3.5 Friend. Extra #1s and #1.5s are helpful for P2. I used #4 Rock size pieces for the 2nd belay. A #4.5 or #5 Camalot is useful but not essential at the start and would be an impediment for the rest of the route.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Sylvia Luebben pro-ing and going high up on Boardwalk.
[Hide Photo] Sylvia Luebben pro-ing and going high up on Boardwalk.
On the rap off with a beautiful Wyoming sunset!
[Hide Photo] On the rap off with a beautiful Wyoming sunset!
Cale rappin' off! Stellar sunset on a cold November day!
[Hide Photo] Cale rappin' off! Stellar sunset on a cold November day!
Mike leading P2.
[Hide Photo] Mike leading P2.
Mike following Max up P1.
[Hide Photo] Mike following Max up P1.
David and I riggin our rap!
[Hide Photo] David and I riggin our rap!
Nice!
[Hide Photo] Nice!
Ouchy, this crack definitely rips up the fingies!
[Hide Photo] Ouchy, this crack definitely rips up the fingies!
Cale climbing the second pitch! buuurrrrr!
[Hide Photo] Cale climbing the second pitch! buuurrrrr!
Boardwalk with the Bell Crack to the right.
[Hide Photo] Boardwalk with the Bell Crack to the right.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

JNE
 
[Hide Comment] Absolutely spectacular, possibly the best 5.11 in all of Vedauwoo, and one of the best cracks anywhere. Magnifacent position, good exposure, and excellent rock and climbing, not to mention a beautiful line.

For the hanging belay bring #3.5 to #4 Friend sized gear. This will let you set it off to the left and therefore out of harms way, and make it convenient to swap leads. May 28, 2006
Jason Haas
Broomfield, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Great route! There are bolted anchors on the right slab after you go through the gully/chimney on top. Double rope rap. Jun 18, 2006
JNE
 
[Hide Comment] You can also rap off of Fourth of July, which only requires one rope, but two raps. Jun 28, 2006
Mark Rolofson
  5.11c
[Hide Comment] It has been about 24 years since I last climbed this route. I did it in one pitch using double ropes. Doing it as a two pitch climb should really be rated 5.11b A0, as there is not a no hands rest stance at the belay at the end of the traverse. Led in one pitch, the climb feels like solid 5.11c.

The first rope protects the traverse. The second rope protects the vertical crack.
Jun 26, 2017
Mitch Friedeman
Boulder, CO
 
[Hide Comment] The first pitch is awkward and hard, but, man, that second pitch is the bee's knees. A couple 0.5s and 0.75s for the hard part of P1 before the pod. Sep 24, 2018
[Hide Comment] This thing is tough. Building a belay after the traverse seems like cheating. Definitely would take the pump factor out of the equation. Dec 24, 2019
[Hide Comment] Skip the hanging belay. Uno pitch. Quite good. Sep 19, 2021
Billy K
Miami Beach
[Hide Comment] Unlike the recommendations above, I've always found it best to do it in two pitches:

P1: climb the short, vertical, offwidth start to Bell Crack. Sit/wedge yourself in a no-hands stance at the top of the crack and belay. This avoids the A0 hanging belay rating.
P2: climb the rest in one pitch.

No drag, same pump, great style. Sep 20, 2021