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Routes in Sharksfin

Big Tears T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Blood in the Water T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hammerhead T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Loan Shark T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
North Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Religious Zealot T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sharkstone T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sleeping with the Fish S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Walking with the Pope S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Yellow Butterfly S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 210 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 89 total · 0/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Jul 5, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is a decent 2-pitch line on the E face of Sharksfin past a large chockstone in a crack system. From near the NE corner of Sharksfin, find an obvious, polished, L-angling ramp.

P1. Use one of at least 2 starts to gain this ramp. Near the top of the ramp, move out right onto the face past an airy move, 5.7, to gain a cramped belay below the crack system.

P2. Jam a steep bit through the crux. Find a good stance. Decipher your next moves around a bit of suspect rock to get another stance below the large chockstone. Pick your exit (I believe I took the easiest one-under the chockstone) and gain the ridge. Cams protect this pitch.

From the top, you can peer down interesting lines up the W face.

To descend, we used a short traverse of the top ridge to the S end of Sharksfin and rapped the SW corner to a ledge which leads to downscrambling under a large boulder and walking terrain.

Protection

Wires, single set of cams to 3 1/2".

Photos

Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
See the North Face route for a photo of the start. You could also start below the right side of the east face. The "obvious polished ramp" wasn't so obvious to us. To me it was a low angle corner with a wide crack. I had fun doing easy hand stacks as I worked my feet up the low angle left wall of the corner.

We must have climbed the wrong second pitch. Our second pitch started from the highest point of the ledge, just right of a grassy area. A hard move to start led to an awkward stance from which getting gear was difficult. Another hard move led to easier but decent climbing. This felt about 5.9 or maybe 8+ pro diff. There was no large chockstone.

I think the real route is further right, up a crack past an overhanging to a medium left facing corner. Jul 13, 2008