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Crag Rancher

5.12a, Sport, 100 ft,  Avg: 2.8 from 4 votes
FA: Magill, Anderson, Moscowicz, Burwick
Colorado > South Platte > Devil's Head > The Crag Ranch
Access Issue: Raptor Closures Details

Description

A super-fun and continuous line with all kinds of good movement.The crux section comes about halfway up, with a cool dyno (or a really long static reach) that leads to some good but slightly slopey holds. Maneuvering off these holds onto positive crimps is probably the hardest part. However, there are a couple sections of stout 5.11 above that keeps this climb going all the way to the anchors.

The anchors are at 100 feet, but there is also a second set of anchors at 130 feet, with a few bolts in between. So if you have a couple of ropes, you can go to the higher anchor. The extension is easier and less interesting climbing, and probably isn't worth doing just as a second pitch.

Crag Rancher sits just right of Granite Rodeo (see the approach for Granite Rodeo or Meanwhile) and climbs up the right side of the big red tower.

A year ago, this route would probably only get 1 star due to suspect rock. However, it has now seen enough traffic that the stone seems pretty sound. Everyone that has done this route seems to rave about the continuity - have fun!

Protection

18 bolts - stick clip for the first bolt is nice.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Looking north out of the alcove.
[Hide Photo] Looking north out of the alcove.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Brett S.
Colorado
 
[Hide Comment] The rock quality on this route is mediocre. Does not climb like a 3 star route. That said, the line this route takes and its length are pretty rad, and the moves are fun. Hopefully it will clean up.

As an aside to folks up in this area, there is another bolted line just to the right of Crag Rancher that starts in a short chimney. The first pitch of this route is probably a one star mid-5.11 that leads to a big belay ledge. The second pitch of this route climbs the right/east face of the tower that Crag Rancher climbs, this face looks very cool from below, don't be tempted! It follows crumbling edges to a giant, hollow flake that creaks and flexes when pulled. If/when this guy comes off, it could definitely be a game ender. Seriously, just about every other hold on this one is suspect. I don't mean to bad mouth someone's route, I just think that in the condition it is in, it's a little dangerous for a sport crag. If you choose to climb it, make sure no one else is belaying on the other routes nearby. Oct 4, 2015
[Hide Comment] All hangers replaced and top anchor enhanced today. Except for a couple of crumbly spots, the rock is good on this route if one stays on the line. A great route for a sunny, cool Fall day. Sep 7, 2016
Kyle Kahl
Boulder, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Awesome, long, sustained route except it's still has lots of crumbles - it actually needs to be climbed more.

My first go on the Dyno yesterday (4-22-18), I had my right hand on a nice vertical rail on the corner, threw to the horizontal shelf, and had it, but as I finished cranking, my entire right handful of rock ripped out and fell near my belay partner!

There's still the same hold 4" above where it ripped off, so it shouldn't change the rating unless you can't reach it.

Also below that where the undercling is (slash, the crux for me being the moves immediately after that throw), my left foot smearing was constantly dislodging small rocks.

Bring a helmet (and all your draws, at least 16!) and belay far away or in alcove chimney roof.

If enough people climb it to get truly clean, it would be 4 stars to me! Apr 23, 2018