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Routes in Sun Slabs
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[Redacted] T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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El Nino S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Sizzle S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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South Gully T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c X |
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| Type: | Sport, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 711 total · 3/month |
| Shared By: | Julian Smith on Aug 4, 2002 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Reopened after flood damage!
Details
Per Stewart M. Green: the North Cheyenne Canyon was reopened after the floods of 2015.
Per Stewart M. Green: ATTENTION!! The Colorado Springs Parks Department has CLOSED ALL CITY PARKS, including Garden of the Gods, Red Rock Canyon Open Space, and North Cheyenne Canon, to rock climbing for the upcoming Memorial Day weekend.
This is due to record rainfall totals in western Colorado Springs which as caused severe trail and parking lot damage, saturated the sandstone cliffs, and is causing parts of cliffs to break off.
The parks will be re-evaluated on Monday to determine how the closure will last.
Please respect the closures and take care of our precious climbing areas!
Per Stewart M. Green: ATTENTION!! The Colorado Springs Parks Department has CLOSED ALL CITY PARKS, including Garden of the Gods, Red Rock Canyon Open Space, and North Cheyenne Canon, to rock climbing for the upcoming Memorial Day weekend.
This is due to record rainfall totals in western Colorado Springs which as caused severe trail and parking lot damage, saturated the sandstone cliffs, and is causing parts of cliffs to break off.
The parks will be re-evaluated on Monday to determine how the closure will last.
Please respect the closures and take care of our precious climbing areas!
Description
El Nino is a fantastic route that combines hard moves through a bulge followed by a technical slab for a finish. It starts from the base of the small, dirty looking pool. It can be done in two pitches or one long pitch. Two bolt hangers are currently missing from the first pitch.
Here are the directions for doing the route without the first two bolt hangers. Scramble up and to the left along the edges of a slab. Head back to the right beneath a bulging headwall over loose ground to find a bolt on the right side of the top of the slab. If the first two bolt hangers are replaced, climb straight up through the slab instead of going left.
Scramble up to a two bolt station beneath the headwall. The initial moves to get on the headwall are the crux. Climb up into an undercling and do an awkward reach through to swing into a lie back on a big flake that faces the opposite direction. Continue wandering up a wonderful slab to anchors at 100 feet from the pool.
The headwall is protected by welded cold shuts, which are getting a little rusty. Enjoy.
Here are the directions for doing the route without the first two bolt hangers. Scramble up and to the left along the edges of a slab. Head back to the right beneath a bulging headwall over loose ground to find a bolt on the right side of the top of the slab. If the first two bolt hangers are replaced, climb straight up through the slab instead of going left.
Scramble up to a two bolt station beneath the headwall. The initial moves to get on the headwall are the crux. Climb up into an undercling and do an awkward reach through to swing into a lie back on a big flake that faces the opposite direction. Continue wandering up a wonderful slab to anchors at 100 feet from the pool.
The headwall is protected by welded cold shuts, which are getting a little rusty. Enjoy.
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