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Routes in Castaway Crag

Air Conditioning T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Atmospheric Testing S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Crashed At Sea S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Flying Wallendas T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
What's My Line T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Kimball and Joseph, '81
Page Views: 557 total · 3/month
Shared By: Skip Harper on Jul 12, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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This is route 2 on the beta photo. Find parallel discontinuous thin cracks that diagonal up and slightly left, splitting the face. This is a long established trad line that apparently doesn't see many ascents judging from the garden found thriving in it. Once eliminated however, the line went nicely at the grade. Thin edges accompany the cracks for delicate footwork while placing gear.


Bring at least a double set of wires up through a #5 Rock, small cams up through a 0.5 Camalot and a 0.75 Camalot for the finish. Bring a 60 Meter rope.


Charles Vernon
Tucson, AZ
Charles Vernon   Tucson, AZ
I'd give this three stars--continuously challenging and excellent climbing that builds to an exciting steep crux. I did it last summer, and I don't remember much vegetation, certainly not that detracted from the climbing. Bring lots of small stoppers; the pitch can be taken to the top of the crag, or one can lower/rap from a bolt anchor (on the route to the right) with a 60 meter cord. Aug 3, 2002
Gentlemen,glad you enjoyed it...Mid July 2002 I gave it a good scrubbing,cleaned out a few dirt/veg pockets, considered a peg above the crux! then brushed a strip over red granular rock horizontally to Atmospheric Testing's peg then anchors.Was going for a direct finish but thought better of disturbing the death blocks under the roof.S.Kimball. Aug 4, 2002
Currently quite vegetated to the point where it was hard to see some of the smaller nut placements. Aug 2, 2007
Drew Thayer
Denver, CO
Drew Thayer   Denver, CO
Fun route! It looks covered in lichen from the ground, but the lichen doesn't detract from the experience. Protects well with small to medium nuts and a single rack of C3s/Aliens -> #2 Camalot. Quite a pleasant climb, engaging the whole way, worth doing if you're up there with a rack. Apr 13, 2015

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