Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,551 total · 18/month
Shared By: pete cogan on Jul 30, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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Grab a 50 meter rope and head up to the beautiful crack called Crooked Cross. Hike up to the right of the rock, then scramble left to its base. Pitch one is about 120 feet and will get you to the base of the crack itself. Pitch one begins, as you look up, about 30 feet to the right of the crack, at the low point of the wall. It's a very moderate pitch, perhaps 5.5 or 5.6, and begins in a 20 foot long right facing, bushy dihedral. Work up to what appears to be rap slings, and bang a hard left, traversing easily to the base of the crack. Excellent cracks are there to set a belay.

The second pitch is shorter, and heads straight up a beautiful line (led by partner Scott S). You can see what you might need for pro from the bottom . . . it's a terrific pitch with excellent, grippy rock.

Enjoy it. The walk off is obvious.


Standard rack for the first very moderate pitch; medium size cams and stoppers for the second pitch crack. A few extras in this size might help. Excellent cracks at the top for anchors, and easy walk off. 50 meter rope is fine.
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
After climbing Pondemonium, Sunshine Dihedral, Upside the Cranium, Casual Corner, Lick my Plate, Alley Cat (which all felt better quality) IMHO I'd say 2 stars. Nice but not highest quality. Bit of scruff to get to a short stretch of decent climbing. No barbs intended. Jun 19, 2003
Matt Juth
Matt Juth   Evergreen
The second pitch deserves three stars, But the approach pitch takes away. Sep 16, 2003
Agreed - the first pitch is a manky scramble, takes away from the overall quality of the route. The second pitch is of course about as good as it gets on the SSV. Sep 30, 2003
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
We did p1 a little differently than described here, and after reading this I think it is a better way to go. The start was the same, but instead of heading right to the rap slings (and then traversing back left), head left up a steep face directly to the base of the p2 crack. This is steep, solid, and well protected, maybe 5.7 or 5.8. I thought the first pitch was pretty good, not great but at least solid.

We brought a lot of hand-sized gear for p2, but then placed nothing larger than a #1 Camalot. This crack is outstanding but takes some skill to protect as the crack is flarey and bumpy. Aliens and stoppers seemed to work well. You can probably sink a piece every foot on this crack, but it would be strenuous hanging out to figure out all these placements. p2 is short, but probably the best route I've done so far in SSV. Jun 28, 2004
Bishop, CA
outdooreric   Bishop, CA
I have to agree that the direct line is better. It didn't detract from the climb at all and seemed to be the way to go. It even had chalk on some of the holds. I used a #2 and #3 Camalot on the second pitch. Apr 20, 2009
Mark Roth
Mark Roth   Boulder
Just seeing it from the road, you can tell it's a classic. The approach pitch wasn't the best, and there is even poison ivy on the climb! The trail or lack of a trail is pretty bad as well. But the crack makes it all worth it. Great protection, fun moves, and a good position...and soooo much less traffic than Boulder Canyon. Sep 10, 2009

Second pitch is good, but the effort versus length thing detracts a bit. Sep 13, 2010
As of 4/14/12, there are no rap slings anywhere on this route.

While the walk-off is obvious, it should be said: to access the obvious portion of the walk-off, climb over a boulder past the belay station, then step into a chimney.

Also, note that it is easy to set up an anchor / rap station to access the base of Southern Cross from the belay stance at the top of Crooked Cross. Apr 14, 2012
Jay Eggleston
Jay Eggleston   Denver
I did this route for the second time recently, and I agree that the 2nd pitch is really good and the 1st is not that great. The crack is fun to do, but the first pitch is barely worth it. The previous comment says to go up the chimney to reach the descent area, but I think it is easier to climb the rock right of the chimney. Oct 11, 2015
Luke Toillion
Longmont, CO
Luke Toillion   Longmont, CO
To reiterate what others have said already, the second pitch is outstanding, if only it were longer! Lots of cool jam/layback sequences. The creek crossing was still a bit dicey as of 7/16, but we found a good spot to cross a few hundred feet upstream. Be prepared for all sorts of spiky plants and loose gravel on the trail. Make sure to approach from the right of the formation, and scramble left up an easy ledge to avoid unpleasant 4th class gardening. Jul 16, 2017