Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Sheets and Copeland
Page Views: 160 total · 1/month
Shared By: pete cogan on Jul 19, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

9 Opinions

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Yes, it is very short. This is Not the reason to come to Dream Canyon; however, it is a nice line, it has easy pro, and it's a terrific pitch to do at the start or end of your day. It's ideal for beginning leaders, and I would certainly do it again.

Scramble past trees and deadfall to the base of Thunder Point. Go up the right side to a big tree below a huge right-facing corner.

You can anchor the belay at this tree, 20 feet before the crack, then climb up the rock/bush section to the start. Once you gain the block, climb up the huge corner. You have two cracks for pro and some neat stemming.

You can also TR Sunset Arete (11d), but I found that the anchor placement meant the rope was sawing over the arete, which was disconcerting.


SR plus 3.5 cam. 2 bolt anchor with rings at the top for easy rap


shad O'Neel
shad O'Neel  
Great crack climb with a stout start. wish this went on for pitches and pitches. I think the start is fairly committing for a beginning lead, would be hard work to sew it up although possible. Jun 1, 2004
Boulder, CO
Tradsplatter   Boulder, CO
Enjoyable lead. Be careful on awkward moves at the start - not a lot of pro down low. Nov 1, 2006
Boulder, CO
kevinnlong   Boulder, CO
Starting beneath the roof was definitely the crux for me, but I found that it protects quite well. If one does not wish to lead through the roof, then the climb can started by traversing in from the climber's right above the roof; this traverse is a bit awkward but protects well. Jun 6, 2008