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Routes in Penitente - Entrance Area

Abrazos y Chingazos S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Alien In My Underpants S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Apocketlips T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Art of Suffering T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
BBC? S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Boltergeist S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Bucket Slave T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Camino De La Sonia T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Captain America S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cassandra S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Color Blind S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Color of Devotion S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Colors Of Emotion S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Dive Right In S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dos Hombres S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Drill Seeker S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dynosaur S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Forbidden Fruits S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
French Lesson S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Glutton for Punishment S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Hand Jam Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hareless T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Illegal Alien S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Iron Cross S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Laura T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Loony Toons S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lovesnake S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mark's Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
May-B-Nueve S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mission in the Rain S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Mission in the Snow S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Morning Glory S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mr. Breeze S 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Mr. Wind S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mysterious Redhead S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Nature Of The Beast, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
No Regret S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
OPS S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Persephone S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Prick Pocket S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Que Pasa S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Queso Cabeza S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Quetzalcoatl Comes Through S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Rocket Man S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sangrador, The T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Serpent, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sitting in Limbo S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Stemoroids S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Tangerine Dream T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
That's the Way S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
To Err Is Human T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Twist of Fate S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Twist of Feet S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Wages of Sin T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
What The Hey S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
When the Whip Comes Down S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Whipping Post S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Yah-Ta-Hei S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Mark Milligan and Bob D'Antonio, 1986
Page Views: 7,021 total, 37/month
Shared By: Jared Brown on Jul 20, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Closed October 12th-15th, 2017 Details

Description

This route is on a large orange wall just off the trail about 100 feet past the Colors of Emotion wall. The route goes up a sort of shallow gully right next to a large black streak. A fairly hard start leads to easier but really fun climbing up the gully and across the black streak to anchors.

Protection

7 closely spaced bolts to anchors. The guide book says 2 bolts to no anchors, but it must have been rebolted.
kboofis
  5.10d
kboofis  
  5.10d
If you're short, the start may feel a bit harder. May 7, 2014
So much fun, I can attest the holds only get better after the start. Feb 10, 2012
Tim Waystrong
New Hampshire
  5.11a
Tim Waystrong   New Hampshire
  5.11a
Such an amazing climb. The climbing on Whipping Post is just awesome. The start was the hardest part for me. Sep 5, 2011
Kirsten KDog
  5.11a
Kirsten KDog  
  5.11a
This is now one of my favorite climbs in Penitente, although the 12 on the left and the 11c on the right of this are close behind! Excellent stone, flowy movement & great positioning. Loved it. Jun 28, 2010
Dillon Sprague
Loveland, CO
 
Dillon Sprague   Loveland, CO
 
The beginning moves to the first bolt are difficult for the short- very fun climb. Jun 10, 2007
Bob, I think he added 5 bolts as there are 7 bolts there now. Too bad, climbing this with only two bolts would be a scary lead (!), but now there is almost z-clip potential where the climbing is fairly moderate. May 26, 2005
Very thin moves to first bolt lead to steep and fun climbing above. May 24, 2005
Mike Anderson
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Mike Anderson   Colorado Springs, CO
 
I'm amazed this route gets no stars in the book. It is probably the best 11a in the canyon. May 16, 2005