Type: Sport, TR, 70 ft
FA: Bernard Gillett, 98
Page Views: 1,624 total · 8/month
Shared By: Jesse Ryan on Jul 13, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

12 Opinions

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A small natural rock arch graces the belay at the top of this route. You can easily walk off this route to the right (NNE - or on to set a toprope). A decent route too, an optional nut placement just off the deck leads to the first bolt. From here either climb the groove to the left or the fin to the right of the bolts. You'll find a very easy 15-20 foot runout from the last bolt to the anchor.


Optional small not prior to first bolt, five bolts, and two bolt anchor.


Extremely dirty up at the top. I can't trust any of that rock. Mar 26, 2003
Jeremy Franz
Berthoud, CO
Jeremy Franz   Berthoud, CO
Be careful on the walk-off. There are many loose blocks in the slot to the NNE...

One star for the cool arch. No more because of the uncomfortable belay stance and loose rock. May 27, 2003
Gary Schmidt
Boulder, CO
Gary Schmidt   Boulder, CO
This route is easy to find if you simply make a right turn as soon as you arrive at the Monastery. Unfortunately we didn't make it so easy on ourselves and tried to approach from the bottom of the Outer gates. Got the grand tour of many gullies. the route itself is "ok". First bolt a little high, but easy rock. After that a bit of variety. For more fun try going straight up the fin rather than working left or right. May 30, 2003
Was looking for something easyish without pebble pinching slab climbing, and this served quite nice. Interesting stemming near the last bolt into some loosey choss, but it's easy there. Worth doing just to check out the cool arch. Seemed a touch hard for 5.6, but maybe I tried to make it challenging. Mar 23, 2004
Great climb in a great area. I didn't see any problems with loose rock at the top, and I thought the bolts up top set up a great belay stance. I give this route two stars, one for the climbing and one for the arch and belay set-up at the top. Aug 9, 2004
Derek W  
Good climb. We used the optional nut before the first bolt and that was nice. If you climb the groove to the left of the bolts I think it felt pretty 5.6ish, the bear hug to the right of the bolts had a few 5.7 moves maybe. Fun either way. Jun 20, 2009
Cool because of the arch. Not cool because the tree is all up in your business while belaying from the base. Aug 7, 2012