PRINT: Rock Climb Full Nelson Reilly II, Lyons

Full Nelson Reilly II

5.10c, Trad, Sport, TR, 80 ft (24 m),

Avg: 2 from 5 votes
FA: unknown
Colorado > Lyons > St Vrain Canyons > S Fork of St Vr… > Spire

Access Issue: MM 23-29.5 - now ended daily CO 7 highway closure/delays Details

Per Climbing Puerto Rico: the daily CO 7 highway closure/delay access issue is no longer a problem according to CDOT the construction finished as of Nov. 11, 2022.

From CDOT: Colorado Highway 7 is closed daily from MP 23-29.5. Motorists can only travel through the area between 6-8 am and 4-7 pm. During these timeframes, pilot cars will lead alternating one-way travel. Drivers should plan for delays, and this schedule will remain in place through Memorial Day 2022.

During the closure, motorists need to take US 36 to CO 7.

codot.gov/projects/co7-lyon…

Description

Headed up to Spire Rock to climb Full Nelson Reilly. Just blasted up the middle of the face instead of the left side (as in Full Nelson proper). Climbing was fairly protectable (5.7/5.8). Joined Full Nelson Reilly at the roof. Clipped the single bolt and finished at the chains. Very fun steep crux, moving out from under the roof was exciting, the face had a real alpine feel.

Protection

Mid0-sized nuts and small cams can be used to protect the face. 1 bolt at the crux. Easy to clip coming out from under the roof. chains at the top. TR requires a 50m rope.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Tim Davis winds to follow the bulging crux of Full Nelson Reilly (5.10) on The Spire in the SSV. Photo by Tony Bubb, 10/2010.

Tim Davis finishes off the bulging thin crux of Full Nelson Reilly (5.10) in the SSV. Photo by Tony B, 10/2010.

Tim Davis follows Full Nelson Reilly (5.10) on The Spire, in the SSV. Photo by Tony Bubb 10/2010.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO

I top roped Full Nelson Reilly, going up the arete. Fun airy 5.6 to 5.7 moves led to an unprotected 5.9 slab below the roof. On lead, one would climb the protectable corner to the left instead of this slab.

The crux move past the overhang was difficult; it felt like 10d or 11a.

Two stars for good moves, airy position, and clean rock.

Fun airy climb with a hard crux. Aug 26, 2003

Anonymous Coward

5.10c

I climbed this route yesterday and thought it was a great. Good postion but I would have to say I think its alittle harder than 10c.you get into the undercling than I used two small crimps, than get your feet up and hit a kind of slopey hold. I must of been way off because I've done my far share of 10's and this one made me think. I guess this makes it a good one May 19, 2004

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO

5.10

Probably the best route at the crag. Plenty of protection, though it looks sparse from below. Sep 12, 2010