Trad, Sport, 400 ft, 4 pitches,
Avg: 2.9 from 33
FA: Joe Desimone, 1995
The first two pitches can be linked with a 60m; it goes at 5.10a/b. The second/(third) pitch is 11a. The last pitch is trad and offers a few jagged cracks for pro. A full rack is worth lugging up there, or else you'll be stuck downclimbing, pulling and resetting your gear higher as I was. Medium to large cams are good, wires as well. The climb goes up left under a big roof. There are good placements to protect your exit above, though the rock is of questionable quality in places. This pitch probably goes at around 10b and was my favorite pitch of the route. One might see or hear bighorn up top, which is another good reason to bring your helmet. More importantly, the leader may inadvertantly send down shards and shrapnel on his buddy's head; it almost can't be helped.
The rock tends to be sharp and nasty in places; there's also the distinct possibility that you'll pull something larger off; be wary! Bolt placements for first pitches are sufficient.
Per doug haller
: start atop or from the base of a very large boulder. Climb an unprotected slab for about 15 feet to gain the right of a short pillar set within the large corner. Climb the small pillar up and left into the corner proper. Follow bolts and green angle iron (homemade bolts) for 200 feet up the corner employing a combination of stemming, jams, and face holds through rock of varied quality with lose flakes and blocks. Two belays are optional, one with cold shuts but a poor stance in line with the next pitch or by moving right belay on a ledge
You can walk off to the northeast. Or, if you didn't bring a rack, you can rap off double bolts at the top of pitch 1, 2, or 3. A 60m rope is sufficient for the entire climb, or a 50m if you do it in 4 pitches instead of 3.
The hike up is 20-40 minutes, depending on what shape you're in. There's a faint trail and cairns, I think, in places. Look for the bolts to find the climb; some are a reddish hue.
Per doug haller
: Empire of the Air (EOA) is currently the second bolted route encountered upon hiking up the talus. Locate the start by looking for a large, orange, right-facing corner with two very large boulders at the base of the wall.
16 quickdraws to link first two pitches and a regular rack for last pitch, especially wires and medium cams (extras if you have them, or bring some hexes).