Empire of the Air
Avg: 2.9 from 31 votes
Routes in Ra
|Empire of the Air T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Eternal Sunshine S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Higher Calling S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Miner's Delight S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Moving Zen S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b|
|Nearer To Thee S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Rohan Face, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Smeagol's Way S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Strike It Rich S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Training Day S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Waimea S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b|
|Walk On Water S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c|
|Windows On the World S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Type:||Trad, Sport, 400 ft, 4 pitches|
|FA:||Joe Desimone, 1995|
|Page Views:||4,275 total, 23/month|
|Shared By:||tobias Nitschke on May 31, 2002|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThe hike up is 20-40 minutes, depending on what shape you're in. There's a faint trail and cairns, I think, in places. Look for the bolts to find the climb; some are a reddish hue. First two pitches can be linked with a 60m; it goes at 5.10a/b. The second/(third) pitch is 11a. The last pitch is trad and offers a few jagged cracks for pro. A full rack is worth lugging up there, or else you'll be stuck downclimbing, pulling and resetting your gear higher as I was. Medium to large cams are good, wires as well. The climb goes up left under a big roof. There are good placements to protect your exit above, though the rock is of questionable quality in places. This pitch probably goes at around 10b and was my favorite pitch of the route. Might see or hear bighorn up top, which is another good reason to bring your helmet. More importantly, the leader may inadvertantly send down shards and shrapnel on his buddy's head; it almost can't be helped.
The rock tends to be sharp and nasty in places; there's also the distinct possibility that you'll pull something larger off; be wary! Bolt placements for first pitches are sufficient.
You can walk off to the northeast. Or, if you didn't bring a rack, you can rap off double bolts at the top of pitch 1, 2, or 3. A 60m rope is sufficient for the entire climb, or a 50m if you do it in 4 pitches instead of 3.