Empire of the Air
Avg: 2.9 from 31 votes
|Type:||Trad, Sport, 400 ft, 4 pitches|
|FA:||Joe Desimone, 1995|
|Page Views:||4,311 total · 22/month|
|Shared By:||tobias Nitschke on May 31, 2002|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThe hike up is 20-40 minutes, depending on what shape you're in. There's a faint trail and cairns, I think, in places. Look for the bolts to find the climb; some are a reddish hue. First two pitches can be linked with a 60m; it goes at 5.10a/b. The second/(third) pitch is 11a. The last pitch is trad and offers a few jagged cracks for pro. A full rack is worth lugging up there, or else you'll be stuck downclimbing, pulling and resetting your gear higher as I was. Medium to large cams are good, wires as well. The climb goes up left under a big roof. There are good placements to protect your exit above, though the rock is of questionable quality in places. This pitch probably goes at around 10b and was my favorite pitch of the route. Might see or hear bighorn up top, which is another good reason to bring your helmet. More importantly, the leader may inadvertantly send down shards and shrapnel on his buddy's head; it almost can't be helped.
The rock tends to be sharp and nasty in places; there's also the distinct possibility that you'll pull something larger off; be wary! Bolt placements for first pitches are sufficient.
You can walk off to the northeast. Or, if you didn't bring a rack, you can rap off double bolts at the top of pitch 1, 2, or 3. A 60m rope is sufficient for the entire climb, or a 50m if you do it in 4 pitches instead of 3.