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Sundog

5.12a, Sport, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 2.6 from 60 votes
FA: Ken Trout, Kirk Miller, Rick Leitner
Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Animal World > Upper Animal World
Access Issue: Seasonal Closure / 2020 Update Details

Description

This is located between Animal Instinct and Evolution Revolution at upper AW. It features unstrenuous, technical slab and arete work. There are cruxes by bolts 4 & 6.

Rolofson rates it 12a, Rossiter 11d. I find it overall about as difficult as Animal Magnetism (11c), though a different sort of climbing.

Protection

9 bolts + anchors.

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Roxanne crankin'
[Hide Photo] Roxanne crankin'

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Dan Levison
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] This is a great climb w/ a persnickety crux on slabby, slippery granite. The final moves are exciting and somewhat unprotected on chicken heads leading up to the anchor. Definitely technical, the pump factor isn't a issue due to some good rests. Aug 15, 2002
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] Interesting, thin, and technical footwork. Moves are not 5.12, and the lower crux seemed a tad more difficult than the upper. Perfect rock, well protected and interesting. Think thin. Jun 19, 2003
Rob Bailey
Fort Collins, CO
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] To me this root felt every bit of 5.12. The bottom crux alone, unless I am missing some beta, brought it up to this grade for me. Add the top crux, even with the good rest, and I think that this deserves to be an Animal World 12. Make sure that the sun isn't too hot when you go for the redpoint. Like Animal Instinct, sweaty hands and slimy, hot rock will kill you on this route. Mar 20, 2009
Jesse Huey
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] I left an Ipod Nano here yesterday April 23rd 2010.... If you found it, would you please please get in touch with me... you will get infinite Karma points! 4252680126.

Jesse Apr 23, 2010
Kevin Neilson
Boulder
[Hide Comment] The first crux at bolt 5 is thin but all there. After clipping bolt 5, throw to the arete on the left, lower but better than the slopers above. The second crux at bolt 7 may be the more difficult. The last bit to the anchors is a bit tense, because you're off to the left and above a bulge. Oct 2, 2010
[Hide Comment] I was on this route once or twice a couple years ago but didn't have any real recollection of it today. So, technically it wasn't an onsight, but practically it was. As such, it would be my first 12 onsight according to MP consensus standards. Super hard, slabby moves including some micro edges, technical feet, traversing, arete moves including an arete bump, etc. AWESOME!!! The first real crux comes when exiting the ledge and traversing left onto micros, feet and hands. Going to the anchors, immediately following the 2nd crux, you gotta keep it together mentally, because you finish by going to the left after the final clip. May 18, 2014
Brian Oldfield
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] There are a lot of chalked up, nice holds heading out right from the ledge just before the 2nd crux. I'd recommend avoiding them and heading straight up the arete. I've done it by heading out right, at about the same difficulty, but traversing back left is spooky and sets you up for an ugly fall. Aug 5, 2018
Ralph Swansen
Boulder CO
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] This is a great climb! The first crux is fantastic slab work. I’ll agree that going left at the second crux is very rewarding style-wise and safer.

Overall, it’s fucking awesome! May 5, 2019
Mark Rolofson
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] The first crux of the route, at the 4th & 5th bolt, definitely deserves the .12a rating. Insecure slab & arete moves lead to a blind reach. The climb is balance & insecure. Pure adrenaline without a pump. Sep 16, 2020