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Routes in Ridge 1

Adulterer, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Adultress, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Arrogant Bastard S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Casana Rojo S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cyber Spraylord, The S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fornicator, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Golden Shower S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Impersonator, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Imposter, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Inseminator (only P1's 1st 70 ft) S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Inseminator, The S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Real Men of Genius S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Shootin' Off At The Mouse S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Shootin' Off At The Mouth S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Silver Saddle S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Straight A Student T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Stranger (aka The Left Hand Route), The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unknown 12- S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wild Blue Yonder S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
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Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Alan Nelson
Page Views: 2,184 total · 11/month
Shared By: Alan Nelson on Jul 9, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Private Property issues Details

Description

"I've got blisters on my fingers!" Wild Blue Yonder is a small holds testpiece up a very overhanging wall. The edges are positive, sharp, and very tiny. Lose 30 pounds, bring your best edging shoes, and boulder V8 if you don't want to do the long approach hike more than a few times. Unlike more accessible areas, you won't have to take a number and wait your turn to play on a classic.

Approach from the Silver Saddle (the notch about 300 feet up from the base of Ridge 1). Scramble around the corner and up a ramp to belay. Climb out right over chossy rock (5.10) to a stance above the overlap. This section of rock sucks, but the rest of the route up the overhanging wall above more than compensates for it.

Step right from the stance and start bouldering toward a scoop/dihedral above. Did I mention the holds are small? The moves and clips are sequential, technical, and elegant. The rock is bulletproof, colorful, and flawless to the anchors. Don't get suckered into the scoop - the best holds are on the outside just left.

Take the rating with a grain of salt. I don't know of anyone who has repeated the pitch, so the grade could be plus or minus three letters. I don't think it is easier than stated, but my opinion is hardly a consensus.

Protection

[Eight] bolts to a two bolt anchor.

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SteveZ
Denver, CO
 
SteveZ   Denver, CO
 
WBY also sports a direct start off the ramp at about 12a. It ends up at the same no-hands rest, so it doesn't really increase the overall difficulty but makes the belay spot nicer. Mar 22, 2015
ANGUS WIESSNER
Denver Colorad
 
ANGUS WIESSNER   Denver Colorad
 
This route has 8 bolts not seven. It is nice to have a single length sling on the fourth bolt at the no hands rest on the ledge. The hold by the third bolt is reinforced with glue, and the block below that is spooky! All the hard climbing on this route is on bullet hard, sharp rock. I thought the bottom was more like 11b not 5.10. It looks like some feet may have broke, but it's hard to say. I think this route is a classic, sharp route! Jan 30, 2018
Will brock
Boulder, CO
Will brock   Boulder, CO
WBY is a fantastic route! Does anyone happen to know what the climb left of Master P is rated? Mar 11, 2018

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