Seasonal Raptor Closures March 1-July 31 or until further notice:
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
New route left of La Chaim that starts from a huge ledge about 60 feet above the base of The Pear.
Either approach the ledge by doing a short easy pitch that starts up La Chaim and breaks left, or third class up the gully below A Pig With Earrings for 50 feet and tunnel right under a huge flake to the ledge. From the ledge, the route is one long (180 feet) pitch to the walkoff ledge -- 60 meter rope is essential. Look for the first bolt about 8 feet below a small one foot overhang that is about 15 feet long and 20 feet above the ledge. Passing this bolt is the crux. Plug a small cam under the overhang, climb past two more bolts on easy but superb face to the long roof left of La Chaim. Turn the roof directly above the third bolt (5.8). Just above the lip of the roof, you can get a good 2.5 inch cam to the right or a smaller cam higher and left which provide great pro for the roof moves. Climb straight up face past two more bolts. From the last bolt, diagonal up and right to a grassy wide crack (2-3 inch pro). This crack joins La Chaim about 20 feet below the walkoff ledge.
Note: all bolts are 3/8 X 2.5 inch Rawl 5-piece with Metolius hangers, hand drilled from stance on the lead.