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Son of Tidricks

5.8, Sport, 40 ft (12 m),  Avg: 1.4 from 8 votes
FA: Leonard Coyne, Gary Campbell, 1976
Colorado > Colorado Springs > Garden of the Gods > N Gateway Rock > Southwest Face / Fing…
Warning Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal nesting closures DetailsDrop down
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Description

Climb up Tourist Gully (5.4) to the second large eyebolt. Belay from there and move up and right past 4 drilled pins to the obvious chain anchors. The anchors are about 45 feet above the eyebolt and have a huge quicklink to rap off of.

As an option you can continue up past two bolts on Tidrick's route. After the second bolt traverse right (5.6) to the anchors on Place in the Sun to finish off Tidrick's. Rap back to the eyebolt from there or use two ropes to get to the ground.

Protection

Quickdraws.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Eyeing the crux traverse.
[Hide Photo] Eyeing the crux traverse.
Adam Kimmerly through the crux of Son of Tidrick's.
[Hide Photo] Adam Kimmerly through the crux of Son of Tidrick's.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] An interesting route. On the day we climbed it, the route seemed pretty sandy. Maybe a difficult 5.8? I could have been tired from the other climbing during the day. But the moves getting through and past the third bolt would be interesting on lead. A good route if you are looking for something to do and get a bit scared on. Dec 2, 2003
[Hide Comment] I agree. I climbed this route last summer and it kicked my butt! I regularly climb 5.10 but for some reason I had a really hard time getting up this 5.8. It was quite sandy and loose. Jun 1, 2004
David Danforth
California/Colorado
[Hide Comment] I don't remember son of tedricks being very sandy....might have gotten some sand on it since i did it, but regardless...I agree with Brian. the route sketched me and my partner out and it is tougher than a 5.8 I liked it though. Zig zag your way across the rock and your're set. All the moves were fun and the 3 bolts were in pretty good shape. well worth it. Jun 3, 2004
[Hide Comment] Son of Tedricks has new anchors. Stewart Green and Brian Shelton replaced the old pitons and chains with new stainless steel 1/2" bolts and rings that are less visible and more secure. Thanks to Climbing Magazine and Petzl for supplying the anchors. Jul 18, 2005
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Another nice puzzle to be solved with careful feet and balance. I think this has gotten a lot harder over the years. And no, it's not just BC I've gotten a lot older, ha ha. Aug 16, 2010