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Routes in The Alpenglow Wall

Chockstone Arete, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Equilibrium S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fragile Balance S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Help Gain S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Splittsville? S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Un-named S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport
FA: Tod Anderson, Richard Wright, 1995
Page Views: 913 total, 5/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Jul 3, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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To the right of the Chockstone Arete is a line that takes off in chocolate colored stone with a tricky sequence leaning out to the left. The good holds are largely hidden from view, so it is best to keep moving until a good hold comes up - which it usually does. Cut back right above the chocolate stone to a V-trough and a committing sequence that is probably the technical crux. The pump factor ratchets up as you near the anchor and the climbing feels a bit more committing. The cold shut anchors are several feet right of the top of the arete at a good stance that is not visible from below.

This has interesting climbing throughout on excellent stone.


Eight to ten draws and a rope.


The photo above is of Crystal Ball on the South side of Haus. Varment is also speaking of C-Ball which is classic and has an amazing top out. This un-named route is the rightmost bolted line on Alpenglow. It's rated 5.12, but I would say it's closer to 5.11+. Not nearly as good as Crystal Ball but something fun to do. Sep 21, 2011
Boulder, Colorado
Dr. VARMENT   Boulder, Colorado
This route is AWESOME. A must do for anyone climbing at the grade. Felt a bit harder that 12a, but no more than 12b/c. Please take my advice and top the route out, its the crux move. Aug 15, 2010
John Sore put up this route, Crystal Ball 1992/1993, as well a route to the the right Lance Hadfield did a route circa 1994 that moves up and left finishing at the Crystal Ball anchors. Jun 25, 2007