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Routes in Navajo Peak

Dicker's Peck T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
North Face T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
North Face of Dicker's Peck T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
West Couloir AI3-4
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Type: Trad, Alpine, 400 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,128 total · 16/month
Shared By: Brendan Sheehan on Jun 16, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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From the notch north of Navajo, (see Dicker's Peck for details) you can climb up Navajo's north face instead of using the scrambling route on the peaks west side. (called west chimney) Head straight up easy rock for 100-200 feet. This is class 4 - 5.0 and may not need a rope. Next climb an easy pitch (5.4 max) up towards the tan colored summit cliffs. Some scrambling takes you under the west side of the summit cliffs, and you have now rejoined the West Chimney scrambling route. An optional second pitch goes up an easy crack in the summit cliff (5.4) and goes right (piton) to avoid a large obstruction/overhang. The summit is then a short scramble away. To decend scramble sw then either [descend] the West Chimney route back to the Dicker's Peck notch or scramble down to the east to Airplane gully. As a mountaineering route it's two stars, but the technical climbing only gets one.


Easily protected with mid-sized gear.
Roach rates the route at 5.2 and I'd agree. From the saddle, climb easy ground to the steep wall and ramp that leads up to the right. Follow the ramp to either a tan dihedral (5.3'ish with an awkward move at the top) or the "improbable and exposed stance" mentioned by Roach and a steep, 10 foot high 5.2 crack. Great route! Jun 25, 2002
Brendan Sheehan  
Roach rates it 5.0-5.2, but discusses a 5.7 variation ( which I couldn't find ) And a 5.3-5.4 variation through the summit cliff, which I included in my description, so that's how I arived at 5.4. Jun 25, 2002
When I did this a while back, we stumbled on some variation around 5.6 or so. Went up the face for two pitches, the first long and about 5.5, the second shorter but steeper, 5.6. Neither had very good gear. Dropped us off right near the summit (found a short crack to scramble up around there somewhere). I think we did not follow the ramp that the normal route follows. There was quite a bit of snow around so it was hard to pick out this ramp at the time.

Was a while back so don't remember exact details. Tried to estimate grade as accurately as possible, but we were half-frozen and climbing in boots so it could be off either way. Jun 26, 2002
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
The way we did it was up onto the N. Face, but tending left instead of right to a white granite/quartz band in a corner. A few reasonably protectable moves of 5.5(?) got us up a obtuse corner, stepping left at it's cap, and reaching a low angle loose section to access the ridge.I hazard a guess at the grade- it felt harder due to soloing with a pack and unusual footwear, but then I tried to downgrade to account for that. It was in the 5.3-5.6 range though. Jul 21, 2003
7/17/04 - planned to do Dicker's Peck and Navajo N Face, but bailed after climbing half of the Peck due to whiteout, wind and cold conditions. Just in time as T-storms and rain came down about 30 min later. Snowfield is well consolidated with parallel grooves of surface ice where meltwater has frozen. Surface was fairly good for crampons but too hard to kick deep steps. We glissaded down, trying to stay off the icy spots. I don't recommend this! It was tough to keep a slow speed and sometimes took 30 feet to stop via self arrest! Email me at if you have any ???? Jul 19, 2004

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