All Locations > Colorado > Lyons > St. Vrain Canyons > Middle Fork of St… > Piz Badille > West-Northwest Face
Sympathetic Mind Fuck
Avg: 1.9 from 9 votes
|Type:||Trad, 4 pitches|
|FA:||Tom Pomtier, 1993|
|Page Views:||1,929 total, 10/month|
|Shared By:||Michael Walker on Jun 7, 2002|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThis route lies on the southern end of the grand slab skirting the Piz Badille. It is a bolt protected, easy romp up smears and the occational crack to a two bolt anchor. Interestingly, the 2001 Gillett guidebook to the Estes Park Valley calls this one simply "Sympathetic Mind" while Peter Hubbel's 1999 "idea guidebook" has the more colorful vulgar name given here. You be the judge for which name fits more accurately.
Start this route from a small ledge with trees about 50 feet above the base of the rock. You can gain this ledge by scrambling in from the climber's right.
Gaining the first bolt may be the crux of this route, as it is easily 15' off the ledge. The climbing is easy; however, and a fine jug awaits those who manage the first couple smears off the ledge. The technical crux is found at the third bolt, some good smearing up a headwall. Run it out to the fixed pin in the crack above, which can be backed up with a yellow Alien, and then to the top.
Rap 80' to the ledge. This first pitch is 5.6.
P2. Per JFM: an extension to the route exists straight up from the bolted anchor and is about 130 feet total length. This ends at a moderately-sized pine tree. There are no bolts here.
P3. Heading onward from there leads to 5.7-5.8 terrain with sparse, questionable gear. This path surmounts a lichen-covered 5.8 roof and belays at another smaller tree.
P4. A final pitch on the opposite side (NW) of the false-summit pitch listed for The Ridge / Right Side.
- No Photos -