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Routes in Garden Party Wall

Can't Please Everyone S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Dirty Love T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Illusionist, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Right Crack T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Topiary S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
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Type: Trad, TR, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 95 total · 0/month
Shared By: Tony B on Jun 6, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

Approach the crag as described in the rock description, and go up the slot to the small rock ledge at the base of the cliff.

Rack up and step onto the wall up and right. Follow a diagonal crack (thin, little pro) up and right to a vertical crack at the right side of the wall. Follow a system of two thin cracks upwards, side-pulling and using a lot of slopers for feet, switching sides of the crack system as needed. Toward the top of the route, there are two fixed pins, a KB and an old soft-iron pin. Both are reasonable, but the KB should not be implicitly trusted.

Once both pins are clipped, execute the crux moves to reach the top.

There are some minor runouts in this route for 5.10- moves. Some craftiness with gear makes the route relatively safe to lead. Serious injury from a fall seems unlikely.

This route, if cleaned of the lichen, might earn two stars.

Protection

A double set of smaller stoppers, two fixed pins, and a few small TCUs.

Photos

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The knifeblade has been removed due to its sheer lack of protection. My partner who led this sketchy climb was able to weight it, but when he did it levered. I followed, inspected it, and saw it had little or no potential of holding another's weight or fall. Someone with the proper experience may consider replacing the knifeblade it he/she desires to do this climb. With all the other great trad lines in Boulder Canyon, I wonder why one would. Aug 1, 2005

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