Type: TR, Boulder, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 8,967 total · 43/month
Shared By: Andy Mauk on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

52 Opinions

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It is a fun route. I would suggest that you top rope it for your safety, but it is good to boulder it, too. It is located next to the the 5.8 roof. It is about 25 feet high.


This is a highball problem. Need a lot of crash pads. Or you can top rope it if you want. There are two bolts at the top of the route.
You can boulder out the lower section of this and escape to the right either just after reaching the cat's eye (the obvious pocket about 10 feet up) or right after reaching the triangle hold (obvious 6 inch plus triangle just below roof around 15 feet). The route climbs left after the triangle on edges to the arete without using the roof, if you boulder this finish out you certainly are risking serious injury. The problem as described rates around V2+ (solid 5.11). I suggest trying to reach the cat's eye only using the two initial underclings and a highstep to the slopey dish. I've heard rumor (from Horsetooth Hang pamphlet) that the one or both of the edges between the underclings and the cat's eye have been chipped. If you use the previous eliminate suggestion and also make the triangular hold off then the problem is probably V3 (5.11+). I feel this problem rates more stars, nearly classic and surely worth two almost three IMHO. Jun 10, 2002
Tom Kelley  
One of the holds below the circular "cateye hold" is chipped. It is quite obvious if you look for it, with a rounded, beveled top and a flat bottom, and is normally avoided when doing the route in "good style", whatever that is. Thus, the Cateye has not been, and should not be, added to the chippers blacklist. But then again, neither should Big Egos ... since that problem was originally done without the chipped hold. May 11, 2005
You dont need a rope.....and a fall is not likely to kill you,so...... May 12, 2005
Underneath the wall there is a nice, (I would say) V1 traverse that moves from the right (sort of) dihedral to the overhang on the southwest corner. The crux pretty much consists of you dropping yourself into the huge jugs on the overhang. It helps to use the little chalked up hole that will be right next to your junk before you drop (that little thing? yes, that little thing). The problem is really balancy and helps beginning climbers learn that their feet is the most important skill in climbing. You can take this problem as far as you want but it gets pretty hard after the dihedral on the west face after the overhang. Mar 10, 2006
Jordan A.  
This problem is SCARY to boulder. Just make sure you actually have a couple good pads and some even stouter spotters. The eliminate version of this climb which I've always adhered to starts on a high left undercling, right hand on non-beveled (read: natural) crimp, left foot in the slopey dish. Stand up and avoid the cateye. Yes, avoid the cateye and substitute a micro crimp with left hand. Find a way to match with right. From here, the feet are pretty nonexistent, so power or levitate straight up. I've always considered the triangle above to be on-route; if for no other reason than to give you a false sense of hope, but as always use your best judgment. Way harder than it appears. Give it a shot. Oct 13, 2007
Sean Moon
Toyota Tacoma, USA
Sean Moon   Toyota Tacoma, USA
You can also pump in a few pieces of gear once you reach the roof, if you don't want to TR it but want the added secuirty of a rope. Stellar route in my opinion. Apr 13, 2008
Jamie Hozack
Carbondale, CO
Jamie Hozack   Carbondale, CO
A local pointed out a chipped hold down low to me (thank you), and I avoided it. It's obvious in comparison to the rest of the rock, and pretty disgraceful. However, is the cat-eye hold chipped? This seemed to be implied by Jordan. Or was this suggested as a type of elimination? (Badass, if so, especially if ignored as a foot-hold.) Apr 4, 2009
Aaron Martinuzzi  
Jordan A's comments are spot on in terms of what I would regard as the natural line of this problem. Avoiding the chipped holds and big rails, the face climbing down low is balance-y and delicate, definitely on par with The Nipple Wall and tougher than Finger Ripper. After this, the triangle hold is an excellent spot to chalk up and get stoked for the edges/laybacking above, which is easier than the face climbing but very heady.

Jamie, though I couldn't say certainly, I think the cateye is modified in some way - it looks to be filled with epoxy. The problem still goes at V3 without it, though. May 13, 2009
Does anyone know of a route through the roof on this problem? so instead of following the crack out left when you reach the roof, actually going through the roof? It seems like there is a 1-finger pocket that would hold and there might be a small ledge you could stick just over the lip, but frankly I'm just not strong enough to tell whether it would go or not. Thanks in advance. Oct 20, 2009
Brett Billings
Fort Collins, CO
Brett Billings   Fort Collins, CO
You may be thinking of the "Lynn Hill Roof" which has it's own entry here on MP, check it out: mountainproject.com/v/color… Oct 20, 2009
This feels harder than a 5.8. The first stretch is around 5.8 or so, but the traverse along the crack in the roof is much more difficult than an 8 in my experience. Any other opinions? Nov 11, 2018