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No Name Route
5.9+,
Trad,
Avg: 2.7 from 59
votes
FA: Tom Stubbs
Colorado
> Grand Junction…
> Unaweep Canyon
> Main Canyon: Un…
> Mother's Buttress
> Lower Mother's Buttress
Description
This is quality climbing on beautiful stone. This route is located (along with a good selection of other moderate single pitch crack climbs) on the East end of the Lower Mothers Buttress. The trail up from the road leads directly to the
Mint Jam chimney, No Name starts just to the right of this obvious route. Climb good hands and fingers for 10 feet to an offwidth section, continue up a short distance to a ledge below a beautiful and slightly overhanging finger crack. Jam away with perfect protection up to another ledge (9+). Finish with an open book corner with wide hands to a large ledge (8). Either walk off to the East or if doing another of the several routes that end on the same ledge, leave an anchor and rap off.
Protection
Standard rack up to 3 inches.
Per
-ropewad -: there is now a fixed anchor.
Per
Sarah Meiser: there is now a 2 bolt anchor at the top of this climb.
[Hide Photo] Up the OW to the steep hands section and finish up in the open book above.
Denver
The rating on this depends on hand size. For big hands, this is a solid 10. Apr 26, 2009
Golden, CO
Glenwood Springs, CO
Denver, CO
Western Slope
Durango, CO