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No Name Route

5.9+, Trad,  Avg: 2.7 from 59 votes
FA: Tom Stubbs
Colorado > Grand Junction… > Unaweep Canyon > Main Canyon: Un… > Mother's Buttress > Lower Mother's Buttress

Description

This is quality climbing on beautiful stone. This route is located (along with a good selection of other moderate single pitch crack climbs) on the East end of the Lower Mothers Buttress. The trail up from the road leads directly to the Mint Jam chimney, No Name starts just to the right of this obvious route. Climb good hands and fingers for 10 feet to an offwidth section, continue up a short distance to a ledge below a beautiful and slightly overhanging finger crack. Jam away with perfect protection up to another ledge (9+). Finish with an open book corner with wide hands to a large ledge (8). Either walk off to the East or if doing another of the several routes that end on the same ledge, leave an anchor and rap off.

Protection

Standard rack up to 3 inches.

Per -ropewad -: there is now a fixed anchor.

Per Sarah Meiser: there is now a 2 bolt anchor at the top of this climb.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Up the OW to the steep hands section and finish up in the open book above.
[Hide Photo] Up the OW to the steep hands section and finish up in the open book above.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Matt Chan
Denver
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] This route actually has a couple anchor bolts so you can easily lower off w/ a 60m rope. Oct 4, 2004
[Hide Comment] The new trail comes in from the west - you can recognize the start of this / Welcoming Party / Mint Jam as the lowest point of the buttress.

The rating on this depends on hand size. For big hands, this is a solid 10. Apr 26, 2009
[Hide Comment] Short little cruxes with rests and bomber gear in between. Classic and safe. Aug 17, 2011
rob bauer
Golden, CO
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] Great line, THIS climb needs a name! Oct 31, 2011
coop Best
Glenwood Springs, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Felt more like a 10, has bolted anchors, great climb. Mar 19, 2012
Crag Mag22
Denver, CO
[Hide Comment] As you can see from the ground, the business of this line is not at all fingers, but the crack does narrow above the crux for about 3 feet. May 29, 2012
[Hide Comment] There is now a fixed anchor. I didn't install it, but there is one there. Feb 18, 2016
poudrecracks
  5.8+
[Hide Comment] A lot easier if you reach over the fingers section. I have big hands.... Apr 8, 2019
A Johnston
Western Slope
 
[Hide Comment] Beware of placing gear at the top of the overhanging finger crack before the ledge. You'll regret placing that #1 C4 when your rope gets stuck in the lobes. Jun 4, 2020
Mitch Dorsk
Durango, CO
 
[Hide Comment] The crux is stout for 9 but is over soon. Just power through try not to diddle daddle. Aug 19, 2022