PRINT: Rock Climb Rooster Tail, Lumpy Ridge

Rooster Tail

5.9+, Trad, 110 ft (33 m),

Avg: 2.7 from 70 votes
FA: unknown
Colorado > Estes Park Valley > Lumpy Ridge > Hen & Chickens

Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Closures lifted 7/28/23 Details

Per Brent Frazier: the raptor closures have been lifted in the Lumpy Ridge and Loch Vale Areas ( nps.gov/romo/raptor-closure…)

Each year, Rocky Mountain National Park initiates temporary closures in certain areas of the park to ensure that birds of prey will be undisturbed during their breeding and nesting seasons. These closures begin on February 15 and continue through July 31, if appropriate. Monitoring by park staff and volunteers have determined that all remaining closures can be lifted on July 28, 2023.

Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!

Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:

Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock

Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.

All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.

Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…

When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.

Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.

Description

This route is on the Hen and Chicken Rock (to quote one guidebook, when is a hen not a chicken?), which is the small, 100 foot high buttress (with pointy top) just below the SE corner of the East Owl. The approach that leaves the Gem Lake trail after about 1/4 mile leads directly to it. Rooster Tail is the prominent right-arcing hand and fist crack on the left side of the rock; near the top, follow a thin finger crack that slashes back left (crux). Walk off east.

Protection

Standard rack; bring a #3 Camalot.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Reeves eyeballing the 9+ finish to Rooster Tail...

Working the fingers left.

Justin Dubois on top of Rooster Tail<br>
Twin owls in the back

Justin Dubois on top of Rooster Tail Twin owls in the back

Mike finally at a comfortable spot, resting up for the crux finish.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado

5.9+

The term of finger crack seems generous. It seemed to climb much more like a face climb...somewhat reminiscent of the Perfect Finger Crack of Boulder Canyon. Jul 24, 2005

Ernie Port
Boulder, Colorado

5.9+

Agree with you Leo, the last 10' of this climb is up the face to the left of the crack, using the crack maybe twice in that span for right hand finger tip lock outs. Nice finish on good rock with very gritty texture. Jul 26, 2005

Petro
Golden, CO

A [challenging] finish is to continue the arching crack all the way up. It protects fine, and is a fun flarey offwidthy face/like finish. I'd say 9+. Aug 1, 2005

grega Albrechtsen

5.9+

Climbed this route yesterday, and it was very fun. Crack seemed to get bigger as you went (scrapes all over my left leg says so). Why does the "proper route" go left? Seems much more fluid to keep following the natural arching feature to the right (so I did). Fun and challenging finish (for me). Interesting feet, too. You'll want to stay in the crack, but really can't, because it starts to arch too much. Don't worry as there are lots of feet on the face at this point. I recommend NOT leaving the bigger gear (3 to 4 BD) in the car... Oh yeah, had the whole area to ourselves ALL day.. cheers Jul 31, 2006

Adam Paashaus
Greensboro, NC

I have never finished this climb by following the crack all the way to the end, but I would recommend the "finger crack" standard finish. It, for me, was the crux and probably the most fun section of the entire climb. Mar 6, 2011

Andy Hansen
Longmont, CO

5.9

I thought entering the crack at the bottom was the burly crux and exiting the crack up high was the technical crux. Neither seemed to warrant the + rating for me, but I can see this being more difficult if you're a bit smaller... maybe 5.10a if you're small. Aug 19, 2012