PRINT: Rock Climb Jaws, South Platte

Jaws

5.5, Trad, 330 ft (100 m), 4 pitches,

Avg: 2.5 from 45 votes
FA: Robert Karolick & Larry Schubarth, 1975?
Colorado > S Platte > Elevenmile Canyon > Turret Dome

Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures January 1- July 31st, 2016-2021 Details

For 2022: per Daniel Bryant: they did extend the order, but what I found was that the closed area does not encompass any of the common climbing areas within Elevenmile Canyon.

From Daniel H Bryant: the 2022 Elevenmile Canyon closures that were extended but do not include climbing areas.

Seasonal Closures in effect January 1-July 31st, 2016-2021.
For details visit:
fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO…
Maps:
fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO…

fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO…

Contact phone number: (719) 553-1400.

Description

This climb starts about 100 yards to the right of Schooldaze, and the River Arch is apparent. Climb up to the tree at the bottom of the River Arch (the left-facing headwall which describes a lazy arc). Climb the River Arch to the bottom of the "Bathtubs", a series of water-carved basins large enough to get down with one's significant other, should the mood seize you. Ascend the bathtubs to the start of Upper Lip, a beautiful 5.7 hand crack, or take the right-leaning splitter crack to the right, up and around to the top.

Protection

Medium to large nuts, medium hexes, cams up to 3 inches.

Gunfire!

Per Vincent L: beware of stray bullets in the area.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The Bathtubs.

Jaws pitch, very fun!

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Darin Lang

I might recommend at least one larger cam for the River Arch pitch(es). Upper Lip is definitely the way to go from the bathtub area. Jun 5, 2002

Larry Shaw

5.5

This is my favorite climb on the rock. Fun undercling traverse. Jun 17, 2004

Larry C. Schubarth
colorado springs, colorado

This route was first climbed in 1975 by Robert Karolick and myself. Fun route!!! Apr 1, 2009

Daniel H Bryant
Colorado Springs, CO

5.5

Climbed this today, it was a lot of fun! The name and photos make it look scarier than it really is. If your second is still new, add protection in the upper corner for the sharktooth exit (the transition from the standing undercling back to the face is where I felt exposed). All in all, it's a good climb! Sep 5, 2015

Connor McKay
Colorado Springs, CO

We climbed this route yesterday, and my partner accidentally put my Chacos in another climber's backpack that was at the bottom of the route. If you happen to read this, please PM me, as I'd love to get them back! Sep 3, 2017

Vincent L
Colorado Springs, CO

Climbed this for the second time this weekend. I don't remember anything about stray bullets in the guidebook. The top of pitch 3 got a little spicy as bullets starting zipping by and hitting around us. I'd recommend adding body armor to your rack it you want to avoid the R-rating from random people target shooting with no back stop. Ended up quickly moving through the fist crack and traversing off to the right. Just would recommend avoiding Turret Dome if you hear shots in the area with a minute or more intervals in between in case there is a repeat offender. Oct 16, 2019

Thomas Chapman
Telluride, CO

Great route. If 5.6 is pushing your limit on gear, the undercling traverse is heady. Next to no gear through the bathtubs, but you don't need it, feels like climbing through a playground. May 26, 2020

Ben Arthur
Colorado

There is a #4 cam stuck at the start of 5.7 upper lip variation. I tried to booty it to no avail. It is overcammed but seemed bomber. Sep 19, 2022