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Isle of the Dead

5.10b, Sport,  Avg: 1.6 from 218 votes
FA: Richard Rossiter and Serena Benson, 2000
Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Avalon > Second Tier > Wall of the Dead
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Description

Start at the left side of The Wall of the Dead, in the chimney that is the start for Tomb of Sorrows.

There is a loose shelf leading up into the chimney and the first bolt is in a black-streaked area on the right.

The route is well bolted and has some good moves through the middle section. Gain a rest at a flake and go for the crux moves approaching the anchor above a bulge of sorts. Good quality rock, good protection, rather continous and interesting climbing.

Protection

8 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Josh cruising up past bolt 4 on Isle of the Dead.
[Hide Photo] Josh cruising up past bolt 4 on Isle of the Dead.
Climber approaching the bulging upper section of Isle of the Dead.
[Hide Photo] Climber approaching the bulging upper section of Isle of the Dead.
Santa Fe near the top of Isle of the Dead.
[Hide Photo] Santa Fe near the top of Isle of the Dead.
Isle of the Dead.  The easiest line climbs  right of the bolts at the hardest moves.
[Hide Photo] Isle of the Dead. The easiest line climbs right of the bolts at the hardest moves.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Besides the fact that this route is contrived, dirty, unesthetic, rotten and the 5th bolt is in an exfoliated plate, I just can't find a place to keep my pants clean when I'm sitting to belay... Sep 27, 2002
Jake Wyatt
Longmont, CO
  5.10c
[Hide Comment] I climbed it last weekend and found it enjoyable. The rock was clean and solid, with the exception of the loose crack to the right of the first few moves (although using the crack isn't necessary anyway). The route itself had interesting moves, and seemed rather sustained. The cruxes felt to be at the very beginning and very end. Oct 21, 2003
[Hide Comment] Rossiter's website (boulderclimbs.com) grades this climb 10a. It felt like 10+ to me (as compared to other 10s I've climbed in Boulder Canyon). May 4, 2004
Ernie Port
Boulder, Colorado
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] Keeps you thinking if you avoid bailing right after halfway. Last clip made easier by finding hidden hand hold out left...decent stances the whole way. Aug 18, 2005
[Hide Comment] If 5.10 is your limit, this will feel very hard. If you warm up on .10s, skip this one and do the next one to the right (Dead Again). Aug 14, 2007
Julius Beres
Boulder, CO
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] This is a 10 if you go straight up the bolts, but if you reach right it can go as easy as 5.9 or 5.8. I don't like routes where holds 1 foot right of the bolts are "off," since they seem contrived, but if you climb it as a 5.9 then it is fun. Sep 20, 2008
mike h
Front Range, CO
[Hide Comment] I agree - it's frustrating when 'bailing right' means using the better holds that are a safe, easy reach from the bolt line. The bolts could direct you left more if that's what was really intended. Aug 5, 2010
Benten
Denver
 
[Hide Comment] Peeps definitely need to be a little easier on this route, because it is great for learning the speedbumps of 5.10 climbing. There are trust issues here, but hey we all have a little bit of those, right? Oct 9, 2010
dseltzer
Boulder, CO
  5.10c
[Hide Comment] I found this route fun if you stay on the bolt line (hard for a 5.10b I thought). My partner who went up right and stuck to the crack(probably a 5.9 or so) also enjoyed it... so maybe it's contrived, but it's fun either way. Nov 23, 2011
Jeff Chrisler
Boulder, CO
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] Rarely am I one to comment on the way a climb was bolted due to the sheer effort put in. Here though, I don't understand this route and the bolting at all. It's definitely contrived if you follow the bolt line and stay off the things to the right. To me though, it's so close to the easier things on the right that you might as well have bolted that area instead. When I was climbing this today, I wanted to go left, but there was so little there and no chalk whatsoever I felt off route. I just wished I was on something else and that rarely happens. If one wanted us to climb the harder portions of this to the left, I think the bolt line should have been even farther to the left and this would go at high 5.10s or even 11.

I say, avoid this route, and climb either Dead Again or Strange Science to enjoy your day. Apr 10, 2012
Hiro Protagonist
Colorado
 
[Hide Comment] So it isn't perfect, I had fun. Some thinking required.

Now it's 3 yrs after I wrote this comment. I climbed it again, I like the start. It is fun, but the upper sections are just annoying that they are harder than 10b or you are forced to go right, which seems off route. You should still do it while you're here though...but I reduced my rating from 3 to 1 star. Apr 29, 2012