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Routes in Torrey's Peak

Type: Alpine, 1500 ft, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 6,085 total, 32/month
Shared By: ClimbandMine on May 24, 2002 with updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Dead Dog is the main couloir on the east face of Torreys. Approach via the Stevens Gulch trail, and drop down into the basin to the base of the couloir when directly opposite it. Trudge up the runout and into the main couloir, where by late May or June hard snow or runnels of ice will be waiting for you. Wear a helmet and get an early start, as the upper couloir sheds rock as the sun warms the walls. The upper half of the couloir averages 45 degrees, maybe a fuzz more, and deposits you 150-200' below the summit.


Screws, pickets, or trad gear depending on conditions and if you choose to rope up.
Eben Daggett
Boulder, CO
Eben Daggett   Boulder, CO
Excellent climb! This was extra dramatic as it was my first snow climb, first solo climb, and first technical ascent of a 14er (2nd 14er overall). Seriously, helmet required should go without saying! The timing is uncanny, I was reaching for my sunglasses as soon as the sun poked out when... ZIIIIPPPPP... CRACK! A billiards ball smacked directly into the center of my helmet, knocking me unconscious. I came too clinging to my ice axe with the sound of rocks zipping past me. Rocks move VERY fast in the lower half of the route, they were not as big of a problem towards the top. My sunglasses were lost in the incident. I was lucky, had that rock hit anything but my helmet, it would have shattered bone. What are the chances the first rock would hit me? Bear in mind, once the sun comes up you will not want to be climbing anywhere near the center of the couloir. Lesson learned. The climbing was a little tougher, but I stayed to the left. I finished the climb with burning eyeballs and a mild concussion that I'm still feeling. A small chunk was taken out of my hardshell Edelrid helmet. Great first couloir climb though! Wonderful route... worth doing! I especially enjoyed camping near the base. Added a nice alpine climbing feel to it. Jun 16, 2013
Charles Danforth
L'ville, CO
Charles Danforth   L'ville, CO
Great route with a dramatic finish. We climbed this one mid-May 2005 and found good snow all the way up. We didn't choose to rope up and never felt particularly wigged. You exit directly uphill of the white block crux of Kelso Ridge. Then it's another steep 100' to the summit. But get an early start! We started at 7 and summitted at 9am. by 10 we were watching significant rockfall off the southern side of Kelso Ridge starting wet snow slides into the basin below. Jul 15, 2005
Did this route Saturday, 6-18. Great time. I echo the helmet comments previously submitted. Rockfall in the bottom 1/3 of the route started early. I would recommend an ice axe also, helped me out when I was hopping to get out of the way of a fair sized rock that hit my left toe (glancing blow, no major damage). I had to jam the ice axe to keep from falling backwards down the couloir. Definitely fun however. We got to the top around 9:15 and it was getting pretty soft up there. Jun 20, 2005
Stich Stich
Colorado Springs, Colorado
Stich Stich   Colorado Springs, Colorado
We just did the route this Sunday the 3rd of October. We summitted around 9:30 AM or so. As you might expect, the snow is not very deep this time of year. There are two places you have to climb up some rock steps, no higher than five feet each. Very small rocks started falling as soon as the sun was up, but this was not continuaous. Most of the time you would step through the snow onto the rocks underneath. I'll have to try the route again in the late spring. Oct 3, 2004
William McGehee
Choctaw, OK
William McGehee   Choctaw, OK
Anyone know if this climb/ski descent is possible in the winter with avalanche danger, etc? If so, anyone want to e-mail me with beta or provide it on the site? Thanks.~Wm Dec 3, 2003
A helmet should be mandatory for this route. Rockfall will come from sunhit, as well as climbers above in the Dog, and along the Kelso Ridge. Aug 19, 2002
Phillip Morris
Flavor Country
Phillip Morris   Flavor Country
Skip the screws, pickets or trad gear. This is pretty much a straight forward snow climb. A single axe, crampons and a little pied a plat will see you to the top.

Seasoned ski mountaineers take note. Mega fun spring time descent: A few 45 degree turns lead to a managable mid section followed by wide open turns to finish. On super sexy colorado spring snow, one can really let it go in the run out to the flats. Aug 18, 2002