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South Ridge of South Pinnacle

5.7, Trad,  Avg: 2.1 from 7 votes
FA: Jim Erickson (downclimbed solo)
Colorado > Boulder > Flatirons > South > Overhang Rock
Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: Closures Details

Description

This short route ascends the steep South Ridge of the Southern Pinnacle of Overhang Rock. This pinnacle sits at the Southern most edge of overhang rock and is striking in its exposure and verticality.

Start on the East face of Overhang Rock at the base of the notch between the pinnacle and some smaller rocks to its South. Climb up some 30 feet of easy rock to the notch. Overcome a small South facing headwall and proceed to the next headwall (crux). Crank up a couple of well protected 5.7 moves and move over to the East face of the pinnacle. Climb up some 15 more feet to the small summit.

Descent - rappel from a slinged rock in the summit or downclimb some 40 feet towards the notch between the pinnacle and the main part of the rock to its North. This downclimb goes at about 5.5. Once on that notch rappel from a large tree down the East face to the base.

Protection

Standard rack, a long sling to sling a horn....

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Photographer:  Doug Redosh<br>
Following the S Ridge, to the North Ridge, 4/7/4.<br>
[Hide Photo] Photographer: Doug Redosh Following the S Ridge, to the North Ridge, 4/7/4.
Warren Teissier on the spectacular South summit of Overhang Rock.  The rope follows the 5.5 "downclimb route" on the north side.  This photo was taken from the notch between the summits.
[Hide Photo] Warren Teissier on the spectacular South summit of Overhang Rock. The rope follows the 5.5 "downclimb route" on the north side. This photo was taken from the notch between the summits.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Doug Redosh
Golden, CO
  5.7+
[Hide Comment] Cool route to a cool summit. We downclimbed to the notch as the sling around the summit block was cut off. Apr 10, 2004
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
 
[Hide Comment] Actually, sorry to be so picky, but the picture attached is the North Ridge. Nonetheless, this is a fun bit 'o climbing that is somewhat reminiscent of the desert. You can link this with the 2nd pitch of East Face, 5.6, to tag both summits. Apr 12, 2004