PRINT: Rock Climb South Ridge of South Pinnacle, Flatirons

South Ridge of South Pinnacle

5.7, Trad,

Avg: 2.2 from 9 votes
FA: Jim Erickson (downclimbed solo)
Colorado > Boulder > Flatirons > South > Overhang Rock

Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

The usual crags are closed for climbing for raptor nesting:

See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….

Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:

flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…

Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.

Access Issue: Closures Details

September 4 to December 1: the NCAR-Table Mesa/Bear Trail will be closed because of Xcel electric construction work. The NCAR-Bear Connector Trail may see intermittent, full-day closures because of this work.

Per the FCC: September 5 and September 6: the NCAR-Bear Canyon Trail, the NCAR-Bear Connector – along with a Mesa Trail section from NCAR to Fern Canyon– will be closed because of Xcel-related electric work.

Mid-September through Mid-November: the NCAR-Bear Canyon Trail between Stony Hill Road west to NCAR-Bear Connector will be closed 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. Monday through Friday. This closure will help OSMP complete some of the department’s final 2013 flood-recovery work to repair trails and restore wildlife and plant habitats in the area.

Description

This short route ascends the steep South Ridge of the Southern Pinnacle of Overhang Rock. This pinnacle sits at the Southern most edge of overhang rock and is striking in its exposure and verticality.

Start on the East face of Overhang Rock at the base of the notch between the pinnacle and some smaller rocks to its South. Climb up some 30 feet of easy rock to the notch. Overcome a small South facing headwall and proceed to the next headwall (crux). Crank up a couple of well protected 5.7 moves and move over to the East face of the pinnacle. Climb up some 15 more feet to the small summit.

Descent - rappel from a slinged rock in the summit or downclimb some 40 feet towards the notch between the pinnacle and the main part of the rock to its North. This downclimb goes at about 5.5. Once on that notch rappel from a large tree down the East face to the base.

Protection

Standard rack, a long sling to sling a horn....

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Photographer: Doug Redosh<br>
Following the S Ridge, to the North Ridge, 4/7/4.<br>

Photographer: Doug Redosh Following the S Ridge, to the North Ridge, 4/7/4.

Warren Teissier on the spectacular South summit of Overhang Rock. The rope follows the 5.5 "downclimb route" on the north side. This photo was taken from the notch between the summits.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Doug Redosh
Golden, CO

5.7+

Cool route to a cool summit. We downclimbed to the notch as the sling around the summit block was cut off. Apr 10, 2004

Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado

Actually, sorry to be so picky, but the picture attached is the North Ridge. Nonetheless, this is a fun bit 'o climbing that is somewhat reminiscent of the desert. You can link this with the 2nd pitch of East Face, 5.6, to tag both summits. Apr 12, 2004

Holly Barnard

5.9+

I feel like a key hold must have broken off on the upper headwall or we somehow completely missed the 5.7 way up this upper headwall, because it required moves way harder than 5.7. If anyone has any beta, I'm all ears. The only moves we found were pulling up on the chest level jug and desperately looking for anything on the right and finally a mantel move on the left arm. There was a two finger pocket a little higher up on the left it proved to not be very useful. Up until this point and after, the route was pretty straightforward and had some nice exposure. Oct 16, 2022