PRINT: Rock Climb North Nostril, Flatirons

North Nostril

5.7, Trad, 2 pitches,

Avg: 2.1 from 21 votes
FA: Corwin Simmon and Lynn Rydsdale, 1950s
Colorado > Boulder > Flatirons > North > Schmoe's Nose

Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

The usual crags are closed for climbing for raptor nesting:

See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….

Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:

flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…

Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.

Description

Also known as "East Face Right", this is probably the easiest route on Schmoe's Nose. This route ascends the narrow east face, and then climbs a dihedral right (north) of the "nose", climbing a short overhang to the bridge of the nose and then on up the upper east face to the top.

The bottom of the east face is not well defined and contains many trees. You can start from the bottom or bushwhack up north of the face and get on the rock higher up. From the highest trees on the face, climb a crack near the right side of the face. Getting into the dihedral of the nose is tricky route finding and somewhat runout.

In the dihedral is a series of three stacked blocks, called "the boogers". There is a piton to the right of the first one, and the cracks on either side offer great pro, but this entire area is a bit spooky as it's not clear what is holding the entire mass in place. Crank past the top overhanging booger and squeeze into a slot past it onto a giant belay ledge. You can reach this spot from the highest trees with a 60m rope.

The final pitch is much easier, step over a small overhang and run up the low angle face. Standard Flatiron fare, including a lack of protection. Belay on the summit. See the rock description for the descent.

Protection

Standard rack to #3 Camalot, long slings.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The easy summit pitch.

Headed for the nostril.

Schmoe's Nose peeking out from behind the third section of the 4th Flatiron. Party finishing up the North Nostril....

Mark Oveson on the summit of Schmoe's Nose. Behind him are the Fist and Bear Peak.

Mark Oveson cranking the crux moves over the overhang on the North Nostril of Schmoe's Nose.

Mark Oveson entering the dihedral of Schmoe's Nose (boogers not visible).

Mark Oveson climbing the face below the dihedral, Schmoe's Nose.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Warren Teissier

If this route was closer to the trails it would be a major attraction. As it is today, it seats in a part of the mountain that most Flatiron hikers and climber are unlikely to visit... ever...

The route is way cool, steeper than most Flatirons, requiring a cool layback and some overhang cranking. Unfortunately lack of traffic has allowed a healthy crop of lichen to mature since the 1960's it's my guess...

Worth a visit if you're ever in that hood...

WT Jun 14, 2002

Will Clopton

I did a variation on this route. Instead of going left into the dihedral, I stayed out on the north-east edge until I reached a loose piton at the top. I backed the piton up with a cam and traversed left under the roof. I would rate this variation at 5.7 for shorter people. Sep 6, 2003

Will Clopton

I recommend approaching and descending by the well established trail to the south of the Fifth Flatiron. Sep 6, 2003

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO

5.7+

From a quality perspective, the route is better if you stay left for the bottom part of the route. Less dirt, munge and lichen. From a difficulty perspective, I think that the crack/corner going over the "boogers" is pretty hard for 5.6. I'd give it 5.7+ or harder. It is pretty darn physical and might be hardest for "big boned" people who can't fit through the first slot and have to go up and over. Lastly, this is a longer route than appearances give. I think the best way to do it is a pitch the the large tree at the center of the face, a pitch up to and through the corner at the bulge (over the boogers) and then a pitch to the top. Each of these will be quite a bit more than a 1/2 rope length. PS- take a few large cams (3" +) for the belay above the boogers. May 23, 2004

RoMo Fo
Lafayette

What a cool climb, a bit steep for 5.6, but it's a short section. Also, be careful when climbing the steep section. The blocks are big and loose. There are jugs to the left of those blocks that are a little hard to reach but way safer than pulling on those "boogers!" Oct 7, 2006

neil chelton
Boulder, CO

5.7 PG13

The last 'booger' is currently very unstable. It defies all laws of physics that is still there. It's possible to use jug holds on the left of the boogers to avoid pulling a half-ton rock on your belayer. May 23, 2010

Brian C.
Longmont, CO

5.6 PG13

In contrast to the other comment, the upper "booger" is not going anywhere. I yarded on it thoroughly, pounded on it, crawled over it, and gave it a general thrashing without the slightest movement, vibration, or any other sign of instability. It is a large block wedged in there, but unless you're VERY unlucky or weigh a thousand pounds, it's not going anywhere. I'd be much more wary of the summit rappel anchor that is a slung boulder sitting there. It sounds hollow and is not wedged in anything. We used it and it held, but if you're concerned about the booger, then I wouldn't touch this one as it probably could go with you if you weight it wrong.

Very enjoyable route overall. We ascended the Tangen Tunnel, and it is FILLED with brush and poison ivy this time of year. Maybe not the best approach to wear shorts on...itch, itch, scratch, scratch. Jul 17, 2013

Keith W
Denvah

5.6 PG13

Did this today, and it is a very interesting climb. The bottom pitch is pretty dirty and slippery. The nostril pitch is wild and kinda spooky. Lots of loose blocks before you get to the boogers. In contrast to the comment below, that top booger shifted with the slightest touch from above it. It definitely holds, but it can be avoided. Pretty wild! As of today there are two rap options, there is a block on the summit with really bad looking rope and tat and some biners, or the cable with rope and rap rings. Oct 27, 2018

Cedar Wright

I accidentally climbed this thinking I was on the Fist. Whoops. I'm glad I did though...as the 5.6 bulge/headwall is really frigging cool and quite outrageous for the grade. It was pretty exciting climbing up the the wild roof feature with no idea whether it would go or not... it looks like it could be 5.10 from below! In the end, solid old school 5.6! I was able to avoid weighting the boogers by putting my back against the right wall and chimneying until I got a bomber jug above the blocks and manteled into the hole. What a crazy position! The boogers gonged when you hit them with your fist but seemed properly wedged in there. I tagged the summit and then reversed the route to about 40 feet below the headwall, on the north arete, and then a short downclimb on the north face... so not necessary to downclimb the entire route if you are soloing... although not a great solo if 5.6 soloing is your limit. May 20, 2022

Rob L

5.7 PG13

The slab moves below the boogers felt pretty insecure for 5.6. Also, while fairly easy climbing, I thought the section above the boogers was quite runout with very mediocre pro, even by Flatirons standards. Overall super fun with interesting moves and great exposure on the ridge below the summit.

There is some tat at the summit block that is in very questionable shape. Would recommend bringing ~12 feet of webbing to back it up. We did not rap from the summit block and instead stayed roped up for the 5.2 downclimb to the lower rap station. The cable is a bit tricky to find, but it was in good shape. Oct 29, 2022