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Routes in Lower Security Risk

Agony and Ecstasy, The S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Central Insecurity S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Ecstasy of the People S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Eldo of the People S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Enema of the People S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Enemy of the People T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Maximum Security T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Men Are From Mars T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Prism T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Scraping By T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Security Risk T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport
FA: Direct start Peter Beal, Upper arete Mark Rolofson
Page Views: 2,640 total, 14/month
Shared By: Peter Beal on May 13, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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2017 Seasonal Closures Lifted! Details
Seasonal Closure Details

Description

Ecstasy of the People is the striking bolted arete just left of Enemy of the People and was originally climbed with a traversing start by Mark Rolofson. Now the direct start goes free as a V10 boulder problem, making the upper, balancy, 12d arete that much more insecure. The whole line is now one of the classic hard free routes in Boulder Canyon, so train small crimps and have at it.

Full disclosure: I climbed the start with the first three bolts (which are 2 feet apart) clipped. The first one is a mandatory stick clip, as is the second one. If you fall from the last hard move with just the first two clipped, you stand a good chance of hitting the rope (and maybe the starting ledge?) since the low bolt doesn't keep you out of the way. Since I'm a wuss, and the start is truly a boulder problem, I decided to play it safe.

(Now that this route, despite being one of the most striking lines in the Boulder area, has gone five (make that nine as of 2011) years without a repeat, I am upgrading it to 5.14a in the hope that it will gain more traffic and there will emerge a consensus on the difficulty.)

Protection

9 bolts/anchors maybe a midsized stopper at the top (it's about twenty feet to the anchor from the last bolt).

Photos

Jonathan Siegrist
his truck
 
Jonathan Siegrist   his truck
 
This is a great little route! Fun boulder problem with varied holds and movement into a stellar arete / flared crack feature. Honestly, I was surprised - I thoroughly enjoyed myself. Not sure on the grade, I'm horrible at rating boulder problems and this is by all means just a 8 move boulder. My guess would be that it's more 13d as Peter originally proposed. Who knows. More people should climb this! Apr 16, 2014
Chris O'Connor
boulder, co
Chris O'Connor   boulder, co
Hi Peter,
I'm curous about what your suggested grade was before you upgraded it? I heard some folks are getting psyched on it. Maybe it will see some repeats.
Peace May 25, 2011
Where is this climb? - what crag? - thanks. Mar 1, 2004
Nice tick, Peter! May 25, 2002