PRINT: Rock Climb The Velvet Arete aka Premonition, Eldorado Canyon State Park

The Velvet Arete aka Premonition

5.8+ PG13, Trad, 80 ft (24 m),

Avg: 2 from 1 vote
FA: 1981
Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - Below Low…

Access Issue: Rockfall Access Effect & Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Per Dustin Bergman, Eldorado Canyon State Park Officer: the upper third of the West Redgarden trail and Rewritten descent trail suffered significant damage during that storm that came through a few weeks ago. Please consider choosing alternates routes lower on the trail.

Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.

The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.

For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…

Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted Details

Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.

Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.

Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.

These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.

Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.

See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.

Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:

Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!

Description

This route is a variant 3rd pitch to Velvet Hammer or The Slimy Spoon. Thus, find the route as for Velvet Hammer and climb the first 2 pitches of that route (10c, 9), or of The Slimy Spoon (5.8+).

Go up the West Face of Redgarden Wall on the trail, just past the second set of Railroad Tie stairs. From the top of these stairs, look right to the wall and down a short distance, to where a medium-sized conifer sits on a ledge just a short scramble above the ground. This is at the start of Velvet Hammer.

From P2 of either Velvet Hammer (as I described it, not as Rossiter does) or Slimy Spoon, move the belay up and left on the ledge and belay below the big arete up above.

P3, the Velvet Arete: move down and right to the right hand side of the big overhang and climb up that on some decent holds, to establish your position on the south-west face, just above the overhang. Climb up and left staying just above the overhang to reach the arete, and then climb the knife-blade arete to the top.

This is a nice pitch, but does not have tons of pro. It was done in 50+ MPH winds, so it is possible that the grade I have assigned to it is not correct.

Protection

A light standard rack with a full set of cams. The fall potential is serious, but the climbing is reasonable and solid. There may be some loose rock, but there is always something good to grab.