PRINT: Rock Climb Sunset Boulevard, Eldorado Canyon State Park

Sunset Boulevard

5.11b, Sport,

Avg: 3.4 from 251 votes
FA: Chris Archer and company 1997
Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Bastille > Bastille - W Face

Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted Details

Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.

Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.

Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.

These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.

Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.

See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.

Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:

Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!

Description

Sunset Boulevard is located on the west face of the Bastille. To approach, hike up the Bastille descent trail past the West Buttress, past Blind Faith, and past Breakfast in Bed.

Start from the trail where a wide crack (New Chautauqua) leads up to a roof with chalked holds. Start up the face to the left of the crack, wander up to a pin in a bulge and follow the line of bolts through the roof and up the face above all the way to the walk-off ledge for The Bastille Crack.

This pitch has surprisingly awesome rock, really good pro (it's bolted) and killer moves. I'm tempted to give it three stars, but I think we give too many things three stars on this site that may not quite deserve it. Fred Knapp stated in his Best of Boulder Climbs guide that this has become a "classic de jour" and I can see why. I loved this route. The crux is short and it's near the bottom of the route. A lot of guides call this .11c or .11b/c, but I think it's a little easier, maybe even .11a if you're comparing it to T2 or something. Anyhow, after the crux is over the route continues to deliver with absolutely awesome movement up the steep face on better than could be hoped for holds. Definitely worth a go if you're up on the Bastille. Oh, and many guides also note the optional light rack to supplement the bolts. I brought a few pieces but didn't place any, as I thought the bolts were sufficient. It tops out just to the left of Your Mother when facing the wall at a dead tree (belay anchor).

Protection

7 or so bolts and a pin down low. Bring some long draws for the first couple clips.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Sarah enjoying the steep juggy climbing higher on the route.

A free solo of Sunset by Matt Lloyd.

Sarah ready to make the crux reach.

Nearing the top; the anchors in sight.

Sunset Boulevard view from the start, 5/3/23.

Chris getting the good hold above the ledge.

If you like hueco holds and survive<br>
getting to the first bolt, then you will<br>
love this route. Great summer morning<br>
shade.

If you like hueco holds and survive getting to the first bolt, then you will love this route. Great summer morning shade.

Chris high-stepping into a kneebar at the pin.

Alan Searcy - Sunset Boulevard

This section looks intimidating, but the holds are huge.

Just another overhang.

Sarah at the good edge, making the next clip.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

J. Thompson
denver, co

I agree this is a good route. I also agree that this route is probably not .11c. It also poses a question- Is a route that is lead using only bolts for pro a sport route? This one is not over bolted, but the cruxes are well protected. Hmmm.... May 27, 2002

Chris Dawson
Grand Junction, CO

5.11b

Here's what I think about sport/trad with bolts. In my opinion, part of the definition of a sport route is that it is well protected enough that there is no potential for long falls or dangerous ones anyway. So if you go by that, routes like Pansee Sauvage or maybe Just Another Girls Climb, or any pitch with an "S" rating, wouldn't be classified as sport routes even though bolts are the only pro. Sunset Boulevard is definitely a sport route. May 29, 2002

Michael Walker
Loveland, CO

Ditto, Roger (on both accounts) - I was climbing up in the Estes Park area this past weekend and a fall on some of the bolted climbs would have been dramatic to say the least: Index toe before the last bolt comes to mind - there is the potential for 50'er (easy rock but uneasy climbing). Some bolted routes are not for the squeemish.... May 29, 2002

Bryson Slothower
Portland, OR

Excellent route. It feels like an 11-, but you almost forget that you are in Eldo. There's definitely no need for sketching around trying to will an RP into the rock, I did it out of old habit going for the onsight but will probably just use the bolts from now on. At most sport crags, I think this would probably get an R rating as well as three stars. I wouldn't be too psyched to use only the dead tree as a belay anchor, this route is pretty good at spitting people off. I used some nuts, a #2 Camalot and a long sling to make a solid anchor at the walk off ledge. Jun 6, 2002

Fred Vanden Bergh

There is now a beefy, two bolt 'sport anchor' that allows a true sport climbing experience, right here in Eldo. (The Action Committee for Eldo web site reveals that this was applied for and approved in the Fall of 2002). This anchor makes this a really fun, quick sport route to do before work. A 60m rope was plenty long for the TR/rap off - the application on the ACE site states that the anchor is "97 feet above the ground". Jun 12, 2003

Anonymous Coward

Hey folks, climbed this one for the first time in a few years onsighted (loved) it the first time, got spanked the second time, flashed (loved) it the third time, the first time up the route was right after it went up and the thing that impressed me the most was the quality of rock/movement and the well spaced bolts. Except for the second bolt, I found the second bolt to be unnecessary and a real energy sucker AND out of character with the well spaced bolts on the rest of the route - my advice to those who follow is to ignore the bolt and go for the good holds. I understand that this bolt may take some of the commitment off the edge of the crux move but climbing in Eldo requires commitment even when on a sport/mixed route. Also, having climbed the route before and after the newly installed chain anchor. I found the route to be more enjoyable, in the style of Eldo climbing, when the route continued to the ledge - c'est la vie = have fun - thanks, Chris. Aug 19, 2004

Chris Archer

5.11 PG13

A point of clarification to the ac who thought the 2nd bolt above the crux was unnecessary. I added that bolt to protect the second. Without it, a fall at the crux while following the pitch sends the second into space and necessitates lowering to the ground and starting over. Aug 19, 2004

Alan Searcy
Pine, Colorado

5.11b PG13

Though it's too new to be in the Boulder Climbs South guide, I've seen folks on it and kept marching on by without giving it a second thought. I'm happy that tradition ended and we jumped on it finally. The bolts are in good spots, but I backed up the pin out of habit. If you blow the first bolt and your belayer is narcoleptic, you could deck I guess. The moves through the first and second roofs are exquisite and the slab work past the white round inclusion was superb. The end left me wanting more, kind of like a slutty supermodel lingerie show. Sep 1, 2006

Chris W
Boulder, CO

I too enjoyed this route and agree that it is soft for Eldo--I felt like I was on the beach in Thailand while powering through the jugs while clipping bolts (in more ways than one). I wasn't sure of the grade beforehand and thought it was hard 10 or easy 11 (not that I am an authority). The runouts were totally manageable on easier ground but I did place some gear (equalized two small tcus)in the stratum below the first bolt as I didn't know what I was getting into. In hindsight, the clip wasn't bad. All in all, this helped my ego in contrast to all the sketchy 10+/11-s in Eldo. Jun 4, 2007

TBlom

Lots of fun, the start looks intimidating but is pretty solid. A small RP can back up the pin and a blue Alien/blue TCU can be found at the ledge before getting to the first bolt. It is also pretty easy to clip the first bolt and downclimb for a rest.
This was my hardest redpoint and onsight in Eldo to date, felt easier than some 10s though. I'd like to call it 11a, but other routes of the same grade seem harder (first p. Genesis, Vertigo, C'est La Vie). People who haul overhanging jugs at the gym will do fine on this.
A warm up on Hair City yesterday was perfect before Sunset Boulevard. Apr 23, 2008

pfwein Weinberg
Boulder, CO

My gear (other than bolts/piton): #1 Camalot before piton, nut after piton (can't remember which one but about size of little purple TCU), and slung horn up high (not necessary but cut down on somewhat spacey (but reasonable) bolts. Not many (or perhaps any!) routes like this in Eldo--a real sport climb (with a small bit of supplemental gear as noted). Lots of fun; I wish there more. Oct 4, 2008

Andrew McLean
Boulder, CO

5.11b PG13

Looks like the pin is new(ish) as it is not even rusted. You can back it up with green Alien or small nuts. It's all good once you get the 1st bolt above the pin. Jul 12, 2011

Mike McHugh

Fixed it, Matt. The online database of fixed hardware is a pretty new feature, and some of the data needs lovin'.

Not unlike much of the hardware in our beloved chosspile. May 2, 2013

WadeM
Auburn, Ca

5.10d

10+ to .9. Jun 15, 2015

Nathaniel Dray
Reno, NV

5.11a/b

No beta: I think that before the crux is 9+ and after the crux is something between 5.9 and 10a depending on your stamina. Before the first bolt, the pin backs up with a perfect nut (extend w/ sling), and a tiny cam a few feet up (also extend) will prevent a whip if you somehow blew the first bolt. Jun 6, 2016

Pink Thunder
Denver, CO

5.11a PG13

This route is just fun. Almost like the anti-Eldo in that it's well-protected and full of jugs. Not that committing, once you get past the pin and the potential ledgefall at the start. After the crux at the first bolt, the rest is a jug-haul cruise. Sep 27, 2016

tyler evans
Boulder, CO

Jumped on Sunset Boulevard yesterday. Pulled off a hand-sized rock right above the pin - which totally foiled my onsight :/ but ... the pin holds! In retrospect, if I was paying more attention, I probably would have realized that wasn't a good crimp to pull on and would have followed the chalk. Anyway, fun route and unique in Eldo. Jul 15, 2017

Mark Roth
Boulder

All of the hardware on this has been updated. All bolts are 1/2" stainless. The 1st (crux) bolt is a 4.75". And the anchor now has climb tech hooks so lower away...
Thanks to ACE and the ASCA for supplying the hardware. Sep 4, 2018

Mark Rolofson

5.11b

Very surprising not to see any gear recommended getting to the 1st bolt in the route description. I didn't trust the pin & it is a .10d move past it that you'd hit the ledge even if the pin is good. I placed a bomber #6 BD steel nut (HB) above the pin. Below the pin, just above the ledge, I placed some Aliens. Worse case scenario, the HB & pin pulls, they'll keep you off the ground. Below the overhang, I placed a #6 or 7 stopper & a blue Alien. These are great pieces of gear. I felt protected clipping the 1st bolt. There is also an optional small-medium stopper placement between the 3rd & 4th bolt. This piece is not needed, but I have always considered the gear getting to the 1st bolt absolutely essential for safety. Oct 6, 2018

Danny
Boulder

The climbing on this route is beautiful and amazing! So much fun, a classic I look forward to repeating. On my first go, onsighting, I was a little freaked out at the first roof passing the pin. I backed up the pin with a #7 red Black Diamond offset nut. This move is just an overhanging reach to a good jug at which point you can relax. I got another two pieces in there, before the second roof and first bolt: a #8 yellow BD stopper, and a 0.2 BD cam. All pro before the first bolt should be extended; however, once you get into the second overhang, the holds are there, and clipping the first bolt is fine. Knowing this now I'll probably forego the extra pro next time. Anyway, once you get into it, this route flows beautiful on incredible holds. Smiles all the way to the anchor, even more so when you see the convenient clip in steel biners and lower off :) Do this route. Aug 18, 2020

Kaz Hatfield
Firestone, CO

5.10c/d PG13

Top of the line. Steep, big moves and sweet jugs. If you’re in the grade, come fresh. Jun 10, 2021

Kaz Hatfield
Firestone, CO

5.10c/d PG13

youtube.com/watch?v=3V0Tv8R…. Jan 23, 2022

Weston Hamilton
Denver, CO

5.11a at most but also really awesome. I’ve been on plenty of Boulder Canyon 5.11 sport climbs that have felt way way harder than this one. If you can climb 5.11 in BoCan, then get on this, just be willing to accept the bolt spacing. May 10, 2023