PRINT: Rock Climb Red Dog, Shelf Road

Red Dog

5.9, Sport,

Avg: 2.2 from 201 votes
FA: unknown
Colorado > Canon City > Shelf Rd > Gallery > Menses Prow

Description

This excellent route is located on the west face of the California Ethics Pinacle (CEP on the pictures of the area). To get there, follow the sand gulch trail as described for Period Piece. CEP is the obvious detached tower of rock about 30 yards west of the eastern end of Menses Prow.

Everything about this route is 3 star, in my oppinion. Start on the lower right side of the west face on small, sharp pockets. Angle slightly left and negotiate a small overhang. The pro is all bomber, the climbing is aesthetic, and the views of the valley are outstanding. Probably the best route of its grade that I have done at Shelf. The only thing that could make it better is if it were longer.

Protection

4 bolts to anchors.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

California Ethics Pinnacle.

Happened to get a shot of his first real whipper on rock. Almost made that next clip! March 2011.

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Making moves on Red Dog.

Tim leading Red Dog.

Julie Logan on the 5.9 Red Dog on the California Pinnacle, Mensus Area, Shelf Road.

Cody finishing up a great trip with a go on Red Dog.

Short but sweet.

Red Dog

Jason H. at the top of Red Dog.

Red Dog climbs the west face of the California Ethics Pinnacle. The climber on the right is near the top of Pueblo Gringos.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Anonymous Coward

uhhhh, 5.7? didn't inflation go out with the [Reagan Administration]?? Jun 26, 2002

Sean O'Dell

5.9

Looks like we have the same problem on this route as we do on Bat Crack - different guide books (and different climbers, for that matter) give it entirely different ratings. The someit as 5.7, Knapp's book lists it at 5.9. Personally, I'll admit I thought it was soft for a 9, stout for a 7. I guess the moral of the story is that there is good deal of debate surrounding ratings in this area, so forget the numbers game, use the rating as a "ballpark," climb it yourself, and draw your own conclusions. Jul 27, 2002

CLR

Just typing to let you know that yesterday, I typed Red Dog and Tucker's Faith in criss-cross; Red Dog is on the North-West facing wall, and Tucker's Faith is on the North-East side of the South-East facing California Pinnacle arête. I spaced out the fact that I criss-crossed the names after Fred Napp printed the fact that, the North-West facing (of the California Pinnacle) looks like a beer bottle... This is just to you.... not on-line....Thank you for not printing anything about... The Flame... because of liability; The very first time I did it, I on-sight, solo, flashed the last pitch-with no Bata and no rope; The Traditional climber's who watched and who heard about it, all said that NO PERSON HAD EVER ON-SIGHT, SOLO, FLASHED THAT PITCH WITHOUT A ROPE, AND WITH NO BATTA BEFORE... 1991?Take it easy...CLR Dec 31, 2002

Doug Lintz
Kearney, NE

An interesting move or two but nothing spectacular. It's easier to stay right on the arete and stretch left to clip. Oct 5, 2008

Arlo F Niederer
Colorado Springs, CO

5.9

The anchor bolts are cold shuts.

The left one is worn about 1/3 through and needs to be replaced. Apr 3, 2013

jamesm
Canon City, Co

5.9

It's a fun 9, that's for sure. Just run the face, maybe look right for some new stuff, but all in all a solid fun 9. One of my favs. Oct 30, 2014

Derek Lawrence

4th bolt replaced 4/23/16 with stainless steel bolt/hanger provided by ASCA.
The anchors and remaining bolts had already been updated. Apr 25, 2016

Chris McCaffrey
Boulder, CO

This route is sooooo good, definitely three stars. It starts with really fun pocket climbing, then the crux is about halfway up and is a great move. All in all one of the best 9s I've done at Shelf. Sep 16, 2019

Collin Hurler
Colorado Springs, CO

5.9

This is a cool route with a great amount of exposure for a moderate climb! There's a cool crux somewhere in the middle where my partner and I had to both trust a pretty high heel, which was a fun move. When first looking at it, the first bolt seems a little high compared to how the landing drops off below it, but it's really secure climbing to get to it, and if you're uncomfortable starting from the true base, you can work over to it from left to right. I think the 5.9 grade is spot on, as it's just a bit more difficult and exposed than Sick of Tradition (5.8) to the left on the same face. Although it has its own anchors, you can also lead Sick of Tradition, lower, and toprope Red Dog the first time to get a sense of the first few moves if you're worried about the big drop off down the hill. Jan 14, 2021