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Routes in Second Buttress

Avalon Rising T,S,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Chimney T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Classic Finger Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Elephantiasis T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Pine Tree Route T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Tough Situation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, Sport, TR
FA: "Spider" and I. Austin, 1988
Page Views: 1,459 total, 8/month
Shared By: Tony B on May 22, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

This is the blunt arete between "Classic Finger Crack" and "Tough Situation."

Climb to the bottom of "Classic Finger Crack," placing gear along the way if you so desire. From the opening moves of said route, move left and establish a position on some very small feet and hands (smedging) to climb the blunt, but low angle arete to the top of the rock, clipping bolts as needed along the way.

The route is fun and the stances are good enough to puzzle out the crux moves over time.

Protection

3 bolts, and according to Rossiter, "and a #6 rock"

This route can be TR'd from gear and long slings, or large boulders with slings at the tip-top of the Second Elephant, as for "Tough Situation" & "Classic Finger Crack."

Photos

John C
Moab
John C   Moab
Updating to confirm that the first bolt's hanger is still missing four years later. The bolt is probably still solid—you could probably slide the wire on a stopper onto it and use it, though it's hard to say what kind of wear has occurred deeper in the bolt hole. Jul 16, 2012
Joshua Merriam
Boulder, CO
Joshua Merriam   Boulder, CO
The hanger on the first bolt was missing last night when I was up there.
The stud is still protruding and could probably be re-fitted with hardware. The other two bolts looked fine. Jul 7, 2007