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Routes in Seal Rock

Archaeopteryx T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X
Choose Life S,TR 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Choose Muscle S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a PG13
East Face North Side/Seal Rock T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
East Face South Side T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Gruffalo, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
I Am The Walrus S 5.14a/b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Jade Gate S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Misbehaven T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
Primate T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c PG13
Sea Bird T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Sea of Joy S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c A0
Shortcut (East Face) T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Skin Flute S,TR 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Southwest Face T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Supercell S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
Thunder Muscle S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Yellow Door, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Type: Sport, TR
FA: Matt Samet, Peter Mortimer, Zach Barr (toprope/trad) first bolted ascent: Paul Glover, Steve Annecone, Mark Roth
Page Views: 3,046 total, 16/month
Shared By: Pinklebear on May 7, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is a a bolted route on the south face of Seal Rock -- it's the second route you come to along the South Face. You'll find eight bolts to a double-bolt anchor at the lip.

This route is about 100 feet up the south face as you head west along the gully. It climbs the green wall in the heavily forested area and is about 60 feet tall. Look for an obvious, ribbed, flute-like feature up near the top, where you find an elegant crux.

This was originally (2002) done as a toproped, rehearsed "trad" lead (headpoint-style) but is now (2015) a safe and logical and excellent 9-bolt sport climb.

Protection

Now 9 bolts to a double-bolt anchor.

In its former trad state (preserved for historical info only): RPs, #00 Metolius TCU, stoppers, two 1" pieces, and one 3" piece.

Photos

J-doozit
Fort Collins, CO
J-doozit   Fort Collins, CO
Cool. Thanks for response. I didn't feel that runout for bolt five as I'm working the route. After doing that beginning awkward section, when you enter the 5.11- climbing, it's pretty chill for the "runout". Oct 6, 2016
Mark Roth
Boulder
  5.12a/b
Mark Roth   Boulder
  5.12a/b
Yes, there are 9 bolts. On October 31st, 2015 we went up with intention to lower bolt #5 after Dan's comment. Lowering bolt #5 would have made an excessive runout after #5, so we just left it in and added one. Originally we thought that incut clipping hold might fall off, so we didn't want people pulling up rope to clip in case the hold blew, and without that hold, you wouldnt want to stop to clip there. The hold is solid though. You could probably safely skip bolts #1, 3, 5, and 9. Sep 30, 2016
J-doozit
Fort Collins, CO
J-doozit   Fort Collins, CO
I was currently up there with my buddy for him to project Thundermuscle while I project my first 12b(ish) route for this one as well. I have left my Trango draws on the bolts, 'cause I plan on coming back next week to keep working it. So if anyone sees them on there, they are mine and are more then welcome to use them if need. Plus I noticed it was 9 bolts to the chains and not 8 like description say. Sep 12, 2016
Dan Levison
Boulder, CO
  5.12b
Dan Levison   Boulder, CO
  5.12b
SF is a great addition to Seal. Feedback on the bolting: the runout between bolt #4 and #5 seems excessive; this can be avoided by simply lowering bolt #5 so it can be clipped from the good “incut” hold. This would certainly improve the overall quality of the route. Thanks. Oct 27, 2015
Pinklebear  
 
I know a few folks have expressed interest in giving Primate a makeover. I appreciate the spirit with which everyone is considering this. I don't pretend to have any special claim to these routes, having made the first ascent. That's why the FHRC process is in place -- so the community can decide. I do know that Primate has had another lead than mine, Matt Segal, also in headpoint style.

I've talked to a few folks, and Primate might make good sense as a "safe-enough" mixed route. Some of the gear is actually good, but much of it is terrible or only psychological, and bolts in those spots would be the only way to make it a viable lead for most people. It certainly would be a wonderful mixed/bolted pitch!

Happy climbing to all! Oct 12, 2015
Mark Roth
Boulder
  5.12a/b
Mark Roth   Boulder
  5.12a/b
Dan,
As of now there is no application for bolts, but there is talk. Of course it could only happen with Matt's blessing. Oct 12, 2015
Dan Levison
Boulder, CO
  5.12b
Dan Levison   Boulder, CO
  5.12b
Mark -- any idea if Primate is slated to be bolted; (or I'll defer to Matt)? Oct 12, 2015
Steve Annecone
boulder
  5.12b
Steve Annecone   boulder
  5.12b
And a big thanks to Mark for supplying most of the hardware AND doing all of the drilling! Oct 11, 2015
Mark Roth
Boulder
  5.12a/b
Mark Roth   Boulder
  5.12a/b
As of today we can remove the X. This thing is now fully bolted.
8 bolts and a two bolt anchor

Huge thanks to the Flatiron Climbing Counsil and OSMP for allowing new bolts in the Flatirons and a special thanks to Matt for a great line and his blessing for the upgrade. It's already seeing traffic. Oct 10, 2015
Nice name Peter. Is it a phallic shaped formation? Jul 22, 2002